Resonator String Changing — No Problem…
Last week, I wrote in this weblog about my experience in La Crosse, WI at Dave’s Guitars when I purchased a new hybrid acoustic/electric National Reso-Lectric resonator guitar. What I did not mention was the brief conversation I had with JR, the sales rep I worked with about the age of the strings on the instrument I was procuring. He thought the guitar had only been in stock about 3 months since last November, but threw in a set of new strings he thought would work on the guitar as part of the deal…
As part of my own due diligence I followed up with National and asked them if they knew when the guitar was built to get a better idea of the extant string age. National was great and got back to me quickly. The guitar was actually built in August 2018 and delivered to Dave’s that very month. The fact was, the guitar was probably hanging on a hook at Dave’s 19 months instead of three! So, the strings surely need changing. It also explains why the guitar was a bit grubby when I initially decided to purchase the thing. JR did a nice job cleaning it up but there was still some junk adhering to the fret board that I needed to get clean off.
As further due diligence, I ran down the recommended string sizes for the Reso-Lectric on the National website and the strings JR gave me were too light by comparison. So I ordered online a set of the recommended Reso-Lectric strings, as seen on the right. Ordinarily, I might buy strings from my local shop as they are priced competitively; however, they along with every other guitar shop I’ve been in do not carry Pearse strings. I’ve used them on all my resonators and they must always for ordered in.
Taking advantage of the fact that my wife was away working, I set up the dining room table as my guitar maintenance/string changing site and a photo of it can be seen below:
In the foreground above you will note the guitar resting on a MusicNomad rubber mat and neck rest. For years I worked on my guitars without a mat and neck rest, but I learned quickly after purchase that this is really the only way to fly! Behind the guitar are numerous tools I set out to do the job properly… Let’s take a closer look below:
Moving left to right above:
- Dave’s Guitar Shop wipe towel which was swag thrown in by Dave with the guitar purchase. Useful for wipe down during cleaning.
- Ernie Ball Power Peg Pro makes winding the tuner pegs during string change so much easier and more efficient than one of those rotating hand winders. Takes a little getting used too and should be used with caution around Pearloid tuning pegs.
- Electrician’s tape to hold the strings into the guitar’s tailpiece during the wind-up.
- MusicNomad Tune-It lubrication for the nut. This will be the first time I ever use this stuff. I noticed during tuning of the original strings that a couple of them seem to hang up a bit riding through the nut. Perhaps this will help.
- Microfiber wipe towel. Can’t have too many wipes during guitar maintenance.
- Fender Bullet guitar tuner to get those new strings where they need to be.
- Small diagonal wire cutters to trim the string. Pretty essential unless you want to circle them up like Bob Dylan did on the cover of Nashville Skyline..
- Taylor Guitar Polish to clean up wooden surfaces. I think MusicNomad makes this stuff.
- Dunlop 65 Fretboard Conditioner. Mostly lemon oil with a nice applicator. Not necessary for every string change, but this guitar has a nasty looking fretboard from hanging out in a store for many months!
- MusicNomad Tool Set. Various screw drivers and wrenches for “just in case” something requires tightening. Just used it the other day to open the rear battery cover on this axe. A very handy collection.
- Martin Simpson’s A Closer Walk with Thee which is a lovely cd of guitar instrumentals based on old American Gospel tunes. This in the background music to keep me calm during string change which can be a little never wracking if the strings misbehave.
So… let’s change the strings on my Reso-Lectric… shall we?
Step One: Using a string winder like the Power Peg Pro, back wind the tuning pegs until the strings can be removed from the peg and later the tailpiece. Because I want to clean the fretboard, I will remove all the strings; however, some people might remove just half the strings and replace them before doing the other half. The decision may also depend on the bridge that you are using. For example, with a Bigsby, I would only do at most half the strings… perhaps, just one at a time.
Removing the string from the tailpiece on a National resonator is easy as it pops right out of the slot. There are no pegs holding the string down as is common on an acoustic guitar. A bit of caution is required getting the old string through the bridge/biscuit area because it is protected by an overarching hand guard. You wan to avoid damaging the soft wood biscuit or moving it around. I often cut the string in two pieces which makes removal from the biscuit region much easier.
Step Two: Clean the fretboard. You will note how grungy the fretboard was. Perhaps a customer who played this guitar at Dave’s before I got to it was eating a Twinkie and it was all over his hands…
Next I applied the Dunlop fretboard conditioner down the entire neck. This is the first time I used this product and its great. There is a pressure sensitive wick that wets out with conditioner with a downward push and applies easily with a simple wiping motion.
After application of the condition, it must be buffed down with a soft microfiber cloth or cotton rag. The grunge on the fretboard I was dealing with was quite tenacious and required some serious buffing to finally get it removed!
Step Three: After the fretboard is cleaned it’s time to wind on the new strings. I like to remove the individually wrapped strings from the main package and lay them out arranged coarse to fine. The heavier strings are usually easiest to manage and might as well get them out of the way first.
As seen below start by running the string through the biscuit region and then slip the string into the tailpiece hole/slot. I found out from experience that unless tension is kept on the string it will most assuredly pop out of the tailpiece. It’s near impossible to keep tension on the string while you are winding up at the head stock, so I find that a piece of electrical tap laid over the tailpiece works wonders in keeping the string properly positioned.
Below, you can see a side shot of the biscuit underneath the guitar’s hand rest that sits above and protects it. The wooden biscuit transmits the string’s vibrations down to the aluminum cone to which it is glued, consequently creating the characteristic resonating sound known for these guitars. In the case of the Reso-Lectric there is also a piezo pickup located underneath the biscuit region of the cone. You can see that the biscuit is a saddle and has six differently sized grooves cut in it to accommodate the path of the strings, so it is important to make sure the string rests in its appropriate groove when winding it to proper tension. In this image the largest string can be seen on the right resting in its groove.
It’s very important to get enough wraps of the string around the tuner post to keep the string in place when tuning the guitar. In the image to the left, I have the largest diameter string pulled through the post and am measuring off a section of string about the length of the next post. There should be no slack in the string between the tailpiece and the tuning post! This distance is a good rule of thumb; however, as the diameter of the strings progressively shrink in size, I will extend the string out a bit more to increase the number of wraps around the tuning post.
After I’ve measured out the proper string length for the wind, I will then back the string off to the chosen end point, controlling the now slackened string with my right hand. What I like to do now is bend the string at the post and then wind the slack up around the post using my power winder in my left hand. I keep tension on the string with my right hand until the slack winds out. The aforementioned bending of the string is a great trick for controlling the string and keeping it from popping out of the tuning post as it winds on. Often I will have to bend the long tail end of the string upwards out of the way as it winds around the post to keep it from tangling or beating up the guitar’s head stock!
I recommend winding the string with the string winder until the slack is gone and there is a modest amount of tension on the string. As you get to the finer strings it is easy to overwind and break them so some caution is required. The coils wrapping around the post should move downwards from the post hole toward the surface of the headstock. If proper tension and guidance of the string is not done, it is quite easy to tangle up the winds.
Finally, after the string is wound on to proper tension, it’s time to cut off the slack with wire cutters like the small diagonal side cutter I use. I cut the string pretty close to the post because the cut end can be a bit sharp and you don’t want to stab yourself later if you brush your hand over the headstock. I suggest 1/4 to 1/8 inch (3 to 6 mm) extending from the post hole. If the cut end is pointing upwards, I will gently push it down to horizontal with the lead end of the wire cutter.
As you can see in the image to the right, I repeat the string replacement steps until all six strings are wound on. Note that, I peeled back the electrician’s tape to begin the wind of the second string. I will continue to work my way across, peeling and then replacing the tape to hold the strings down into the tail piece. The adhesive on the tape is robust enough to hold throughout the process.
Here in the image to the left I am measuring out the string length for the upper most post on the headstock. I am guesstimating the proper length since there is no post above to use as a reference point. Also note, very importantly, that the wound strings come off the post towards the inner part of the headstock for best alignment within the guitar so choose your winding direction accordingly!
When the strings come off the posts in the proper orientation as mentioned above they line up nicely in the nut, which makes tuning accuracy more probable. The last step before final tuning is to gently stretch the strings. Note below the I use my left hand to pull upwards on the string and with my right, I gently old the strings in place so that they do not pop out of the biscuit grooves. It is possible to overstretch the finer strings and break them so use some caution. After stretching, I will tune the strings. I go through the stretching/tuning process three to four times before the strings stabilize. As Carlos Santana says, “You got to let the strings know who is the boss!”
For best accuracy I use an electronic tuner to get my strings to proper pitch. I never had the ear to tune strings, so the tuner for me is an absolute requirement. I own multiple tuners like the Fender Bullet below left but find the clip on tuners sometimes non responsive, which is frustrating. My best go-to tuner is the Boss TU-3. It always delivers. Of course you must have a guitar that you can plug-in to use a TU-3! I tune to standard EADGBE for starters, but tune down to Open D for bottleneck work on the Reso-Lectric, which is DADF#AD.
Step Four: Wrapping things up… so, we’re almost done… as I mentioned earlier in this blog, I decided for the first time ever to use some lubrication in the nut grooves to enhance the ease of tuning… sometimes a wound string can “hang up” in the nut creating unwanted tuning errors. I suppose the grooves in the nut could be routed out a bit, but I think trying lubricant is the least aggressive approach to this minor problem.
Applying the lubricant is pretty painless. It is a viscous vaseline-like fluid that I squeezed into a small bowl and then daubed a micro brush into it and subsequently wiped it into the nut groove. I loosened the strings enough to lift them out of the way during application and then re-tuned afterwards. So far, tuning accuracy seems a bit better now!
And then the last step… Applying some guitar polish and a final buff down:
All done and looking and sounding good:
