My Search for Transcendent Acoustic Guitar Tone – I review my Collings C10-35.

Introduction

The first solid wood acoustic guitar I ever purchased was a 1994 era Taylor 510 (Mahogany and Spruce) Dreadnought. After I learned through hard knocks and dirty socks that I was not quick enough to be a bluegrass flat picker, I dumped the Dread and worked my way through a series of other Taylors more suitable for fingerstyle, including a 1997 612 (Spruce and Maple, now owned by my son), an early 2000’s 714ce (Cedar and Rosewood, traded away), a 2015 914ce (Spruce and Rosewood), and finally a 2016 812ce (Spruce and Rosewood). In short, I was a Taylor fan-boy. The brighter, more modern sound of Taylors, for a long time, appealed to my ears and sensibility. Over the years, I auditioned other major brands but they fell short of my expectations in tonality, as well as fit, finish and value.

Me and the 0002H

Then several months ago, my opinion about acoustic guitars took an abrupt change in direction when I traded my Taylor 812ce and purchased a Collings 0002H, which I discussed in some detail here. In sum, the 0002H bloomed with overtone when plucked, whereas the Taylor 812ce’s tone was more fundamental and somewhat anemic sounding by comparison. As a result I suffered zero remorse replacing the 812ce with the 0002H and have since greatly enjoyed playing it at home and when performing.

The 0002H and I were largely inseparable, except when I played slide in Open D on my National M1, which created a dilemma for me because I had my remaining Taylor acoustic, a 914ce, sitting idle and unplayed for an extended period of time. To try to remedy this situation, I put new strings on the Taylor and played it a bit to see if I could get some traction with it. Not suprislingly my expectations for acoustic guitar tonality had changed and the 914ce was now irretrievably disappointing to me ear… really disappointing.

My friend Grant and me at my local shop

In sum, the 914ce became a candidate for trade. Sadly, there really were no acoustic guitars at the local guitar store that interested me. They have a fine selection of Taylors but I was done with Taylors as I’d owned two of their finest instruments for several years. Further, I was pretty much underwhelmed by the tonality of their newer, reinvented, heavily marketed V-Class line of acoustics. The Taylor Guitar Company is a great company and over the years they’ve been very kind to me, but for now I am done with their guitars, with the exception of a T5z which I am hanging onto. My local shop also has some nice Martins in their inventory, but those guitars have always left me cold.

The Collings Corner at Dave’s Guitars

My thinking was that it might be really nice to have another Collings acoustic in my stable to replace the 914ce, so I asked the Collings Enthusiasts Facebook crowd what they might recommend in a small bodied guitar that would complement my 0002H. Several members made a variety of suggestions. I followed up with research on their recommendations and decided that the best candidate was perhaps the C10 model. Given that the 0002H’s body was constructed of Sitka Spruce and East Indian Rosewood, the C10 offered a nice contrast with a body of Sitka Spruce and Mahogany, The only store within distance that sells Collings Acoustic was Dave’s Guitars in LaCrosse, WI which is about 3 hours away by car. I thus cross-matched the Facebook recommendations with Dave’s inventory, which at the time was 12 guitars. Sure enough, they had a C10-35 in stock, which is a variation of the C10 and it was finished in a lovely sunburst! So I decided to take a trip to the store to check it out. There were some other models too, such as the Collings OM that I wanted to look more closely at also, but the C10-35 was at the top of the list.

Vintage L-0 & L-00

Collings is well know for designing guitar models based upon or inspired by highly regarded vintage classics of the past. But instead of duplicating the older guitars they apply a combination of precision machine technology, skilled, meticulous handwork, and the finest materials (i.e. tone woods) available to produce an instrument that exceeds the original vintage design in both tonality as well as fit and finish. It’s my understanding that the C10 was inspired by the Gibson L-00 guitars of the 1930’s. Vintage versions of this instrument are highly sought after by musicians and collectors. Collings’ limited production C10-35 variant pushes the voicing of the original C10 to more closely emulate a vintage instrument by using ultra-light tone woods, non-scalloped Adirondack bracing, a long cutthrough saddle, and other vintage inspired features such as an abbreviated tongue brace.

It is difficult for me to articulate the care, time and detail that goes into making a Collings instrument, which sets them apart from the big time manufacturers such as Taylor, Gibson and Martin. While a large manufacturer like Taylor makes consistent and beautiful guitars, they are still, in my experience, missing the fairy dust that makes them singular instruments. The brief documentary film I share below does clarify what the Collings philosophy is and why their guitars stand out in the marketplace:

As I wrote earlier, Collings often designs guitars that are inspired by the past, so as the highly regarded 1930’s era Gibsons. Below you can see Steve Earle speak to his vintage L-00, which inspired the C10-35.

If you’re interested in more background regarding Gibson acoustic guitars, the following video is quite informative:


I Purchase a C10-35

As I mentioned above, Dave’s Guitars had a relatively large inventory of Collings acoustics when I initially decided to trade-off the Taylor 914ce. Collings is a smallish operation, so the marketplace is not flooded with their instruments. It’s nice for me that a store just three hours away sells them. It was on a Saturday when I made the decision to move on the C10-35, but I also wanted to audition an OM too before making the final purchase. At that moment in time there were 12 Collings acoustics hanging on the wall at Dave’s. Sunday when I again checked into Dave’s inventory they were down to just 8 and the two OM’s in stock were gone! I was astonished and unnerved. There was a run on Collings guitars going on at Dave’s! In response, without even playing the C10-35, I put it on my credit card, and let the store know I would drive over the following Tuesday to pick it up as well as trade-in the 914ce. I figured that if I really did not like the C10-35, the folks at Dave’s would just refund what I’d paid… no harm no foul…

Me at Dave’s visiting his collection

So I went to Dave’s early Tuesday morning with my friend Grant. The C10-35 was sitting there waiting for me to pick up; however, I sat in the corner and auditioned it for quite a while before closing the deal. I also checked out a Collings CJ-45, a larger Gibson Jumbo inspired guitar but thought it was way too large for my comfort. While auditioning the two Collings, the store examined my Taylor and made, what I thought, was a very fair trade offer, considering that the guitar was pretty dinged up (it sold within the week, so they knew what they were doing).

I closed the deal and remanded the guitar to the custody of Dave’s luthier shop to have a K&K Pure Mini pickup installed. I like to play through an acoustic amp at home and I typically perform plugged into a PA system, so a pickup is a necessity. Dave’s acoustic guy, JR Rabie is emphatic that the K&K is the best choice for a Collings acoustic. I put one into my 0002H and was very please with its simplicity and transparency.

Grant and I grabbed lunch, checked out Dave’s upstairs collection of vintage guitars, visited Daves’ Drum Depot and by then the C10-35 was ready for pickup. I gave the guitar a cursory examination while in the case, then Grant and I headed home with the Collings in the back of car.

Ruh-Roh… This Is All Wrong!!!

Circumferential scarring around the jack

When I got home, I promptly pulled the guitar out of its case and the first thing I did was look at the bottom of the guitar to study what the pickup jack looked like and I was appalled to see that there was a circumferential gouge or scar around the jack’s location. It seemed pretty obvious to me that the luthier/tech damaged the wood around the jack when either enlarging the hole for the jack or when tightening the jack into its final location. Sadly, the damage was not reported at the time it occurred, leading me to have to find it after I got home.

After repair

I contacted several people at Dave’s Guitars via email with the above photograph and in very short order they responded with an apology and an offer to either repair the damage or refund me $200. The monetary refund was not very much considering the overall cost of the guitar, suggesting to me that what they really wanted to do was repair the instrument. I was informed that with a nitrocellulose finish, such as on this guitar, the luthiers would be able to repair the damage. At my request, Dave’s shipped me a suitable box and a prepaid return UPS label. I played the guitar for several days bonding with it before the shipping box arrived, and that same day I shipped the guitar back to Wisconsin. About a week after the guitar had arrived at Dave’s they completed the repair and shipped it back to me. Since it was so cold here in Iowa when the box arrived, I had to let it acclimate in my house for 24 hours before opening. That was a long day! You can see in the photo above the guitar bottom after repair. The damage is largely gone; however, if you look closely enough there’s still some slight evidence of the mishap, but not enough to quibble with. I am very glad to have it back.

I Review the Collings C10-35

Collings C10-35 in TKL Case

On the right you can see the C10-35 in the TKL hardcase that Collings uses to protect their guitars. It’s a decent case with a nice tight fit for the guitar, but the Tolex covering is vulnerable to tearing if not handled gently. As with a typical guitar case, there’s a compartment for storing necessities and there’s a key included to lock the case if desired. There is a cushioned, comfortable handle but rugged enough to last the life of the case.

Collings C10-35

Looking very much like a vintage Gibson L-00 the Collings C10-35 is larger than a parlor guitar but still in a relatively small body. Coming with a paddle style headstock, a mahogany neck, a Wenge fingerboard and bridge, with back and sides of mahogany and a top of sitka spruce. The nitrocellulose coating is so glossy and mirror-like it’s hard to photograph the guitar without revealing whatever is in the background.

The guitar is significantly lighter than my 0002H, which is probably a function of its somewhat smaller size, but also thinned out tone woods for the body. Internally is a pre-war, non-scalloped X bracing, composed of light Adirondack spruce.

The guitar is quite beautiful but spare in adornment. Other than the “just-showy” Ivoroid tuners, the body is bound by thin strips of Ivoroid with no purfling. The sound hole rosette is also basic Ivoroid with some simple black and white purfling. It’s the combination of the high gloss nitrocellulose finish over the stunning sunburst staining of the soundboard that gives the guitar its “wow” factor. As a rule, I do not like pickguards, but the vintage tiger stripe guard also adds to the guitars stunning appearance. The Taylor 914ce I traded for this Collings was a highly embellished instrument and physically stunning in its own right, but in the end when your playing a guitar, it’s not really what it looks like, but what it sounds like, as well as its playability and the C10-35 wins “hands-down” for me!

C10-35 Headstock

The C10-35’s headstock is carved with their recognizable haircut profile and topped with a gloss Ebony veneer and an Ivoroid Collings logo. The tuners are nickel Waverly brand with a 16:1 ratio, which makes tuning a pleasure. The tuner buttons are Ivoroid and the gearing is open in the back adding to he vintage appearance for the guitar.

I have some reservations about Ivoroid tuning buttons because my former Taylor 812ce tuners had Ivoroid buttons, one of which blew apart when I was restringing the guitar with an powered auto-winder. Straight metal knobs like the 0002H is equipped with would have been just fine. Still… the Ivoroid knobs are pretty and add to the vintage look. I really like the appearance of a slothead like the 0002H possesses, but they are considerably more fiddly to restring than a paddle head like the C10-35 has, so that’s good!

Note also, the 1 3/4 inch bone nut. That is a standard width nowadays and fine for finger picking.

Wenge Fingerboard

While the other C10 models are built with Ebony fingerboards, the C10-35 possesses the very grainy appearing Wenge wood. It’s the first guitar I’ve ever owned that has any Wenge on it. Why Collings made this decision eludes me, but I think it has a rather stunning and antique-like appearance with its broad and distinctive grain, The Wenge looks like it might be coarse feeling, but it’s quite smooth making for a functional fingerboard.

Santa Cruz strings

The guitar was shipped with D’Addario EJ 16’s, which I like and they’re pretty affordable; however, I’ve replaced them with Santa Cruz Low Tension Parabellum strings because they are easier on my hands and they sound good. They are very expensive strings so their longevity will determine whether or not I keep using them. Since they are micro-coated hopefully they will last a while.

C10-35 body

To the right you can see a close-up of the C10-35’s body. Note the sunburst stain, the simple unadorned bindings and paired-down soundhole rosette, the tiger-striped pickguard, the Wenge bridge, the vintage cut-through saddle and the plain Ivoroid bridge pins. Simple but stunning in appearance.

Some guitar designers believe the larger cut through saddle creates a different tonality for the guitar because of the larger surface area contact with the bridge. This is open to continuing debate; however, these cut through saddles were very common on pre-war guitars, which is what inspires the C10-35 design.

The guitar’s body has an elegantly narrow waist and proportionately different sized upper and lower bouts giving the guitar aesthetically pleasing dimensions and appearance. Highly regarded independent luthier Ernst Somogyi would point out that the Greek Golden Rule of Proportion was applied by constructing the waist of the guitar to give a perfect ratio of top bout size compared to the lower bout. Further, the shoulders of the guitar add a subtle sloping drop which enhances its elegance giving it an altogether more appealing shape to the human eye!

To the left is a section of the guitar’s back showing the rich Honduran Mahogany color and the stunning grain. There is a barely visible Walnut backstrip joining the two pieces of Mahogany that comprise the back.

Conclusion

This guitar, like my 0002H has great presence, both in tonality and appearance. Unlike the 0002H which blooms with a cascade of overtone, the C10-35 is somewhat dryer and more straightforward, but still dwarfs my Taylor 812ce and 914ce with it’s sonic personality. It is a very comfortable guitar to play with its small-but-not-too-small body size and its shorter 24&7/8 inch scale. In fact, it is easier to play than the longer scaled stiffer 0002H. It’s an instrument that earns respect and demands to be played!


The C10-35 at home…

Below is a Vimeo clip of me playing the C10-35. I play strictly fingerstyle and this piece is a section of the guitar accompaniment to Steve Earle’s tune Goodbye, which was arranged by Tom Feldmann in one of his online lessons, a teacher I highly recommend. As I said above I use a K&K Pure Mini pickup run through the following signal chain: First into an and L.R. Baggs Venue, which is a DI and tone control; Second, in my effects loop, that runs through the Venue, I applied some light compression using the L.R. Baggs Session Align Pedal, and finally through a Genzler Pro Array acoustic amp. I also have L.R. Baggs Delay and Reverb pedals in the signal chain but chose not to use them to keep the soundclip as natural as possible. The settings of the signal chain devices are such that the guitar sounds louder but matches, to the extent possible, the tonality of the C10-35 unplugged, and it comes pretty close. I recorded the clip with an iPhone 11, equipped with a Shure MV88 mic plugged into its jack, and did final processing in Apple’s iMovie. Probably best appreciated with decent headphones.


If you’d like to hear more samples from this guitar, I suggest you visit this blog entry and scroll down to the bottom:


Finally, thanks again to the Collings Guitars Enthusiasts Facebook page for their suggestions during my hunt for guitar tone transcendence!

Tone Zone for the Taylor Electrics: the Solidbody and the T5z…

or Jacob makes a house call… Part 2

A few weeks ago, my friend Jacob Lampman made a house call to help me set-up a my Taylor T3c from a tone perspective. It was a great visit and an education for me and is well-documented in a prior posting.

In short Jacob, who is an accomplished guitarist, guitar instructor, and all purpose floor guy at my local shop, Bob’s Guitars agreed to work with me at my home with my three electric guitar’s tones as barter for a very nice, barely used hand-tooled El Dorado guitar strap.

Left Taylor SBc Walnut; Right Taylor T5z Pro, Ltd

The guitars remaining for Jacob to work with were a 2007 Taylor SBc Walnut (SB stands for solid-body) and a 2019 Taylor T5z Pro, Ltd (Molasses Burst).

The SBc is an interesting guitar. Taylor manufactured solid body guitars for only a brief time. They had developed a set of “innovative” pickups when they designed the hollow-bodied acoustic/electric hybrid T5 and sometime thereafter introduced their solid bodies to the marketplace so they could deploy the pickups in other guitars. They produced multiple designs with varying specs and the one I purchased last summer off of Reverb was one of the nicest ones that they made. My SBc had a Walnut top laid into a routed out Sapele body, and equipped with mini-humbuckers. The unusual appearing aluminum bridge was also a Taylor invention that allows multi-directional setting of the guitar string.

Taylor’s solid bodies reviewed well among the guitarati; however they did not sell enough of the product to justify continuance of manufacturing and phased them out. As a caution to anyone else inspired to buy one of these on the used market, they can be found at reasonable prices; however, make sure to carefully check the Sapele neck for twisting/warping as I have heard of several units, including the one I purchased, that suffered from the aforementioned malady. I was exceptionally fortunate in that Taylor replaced my neck, but I have heard again from multiple other sources that they no longer will do replacements.

The other guitar for Jacob’s review was a 2019 T5z Pro, Ltd. The Pro version is made with a flamed maple top inlaid into a routed out Sapele body. You can spend more and get a Koa top if you wish, which would be a T5z Custom. Other than gold-plated works and the top wood, the guitars are spec’d the same. The T5z is sold as an acoustic/electric hybrid with a 5 way switch to vary the choices of which of three different pickups (2 humbuckers of varying design and location and an acoustic body sensor under the bridge) with combinations thereof that can be selected. Unlike the recently introduced Fender Acoustasonics, there is zero modeling or sound alteration internally taking place with the T5z other than the preamp tone controls. The T5z is a lovely, small hollow bodied guitar with three nicely designed pickups.

In the rear left a Fishman Artist Acoustic Amp and on the right a reissued Fender Princeton Reverb. In the foreground my pedal boards.

The purpose of Jacob’s visit was to help me sort out how best to used the above described guitars as they interact with my amps and pedals, which can be seen on the right.

For a more detailed discussion of my various pedals please refer to here.

During his previous visit Jacob and I worked exclusively on my Taylor T3c, which is a semi-hollow bodied electric guitar with two full-sized “vintage” alnico pickups. and the goal of that set-up with to keep a relatively clean sound with enhanced mid-tones to suit the electrified country blues that I like to play.

Jacob working on the Solid Body (SBc)…

We opened our discussion of the Solid Body by speaking to the differences between my full size vintage humbuckers on the T3 and the mini humbuckers on the SBc. The minis have a more focused tone and a clearer, brighter sound because they sense less string vibration with their smaller size. Further, mini humbuckers will create more “grind” when pushing the amp with extra gain, which increases the power of the signal from the guitar to the amplifier.

Jacob quickly disabused me of the notion that the Solid body was designed to play clean as “country water” like the T3. As suggested above, to sound its best, a solid body with mini humbuckers requires some extra “grind” or “grit” to take best advantage of the instrument, which means sending increased gain to the amplifier. The implements for that process would be my two Mesa Boost/Overdrive pedals. In sum, Jacob said we should seek to achieve a “hairier,” more intense driving sound from the mini-humbuckers.

Why Mesa gain pedals? Well, the marketplace is awash with pedals of this type and choosing proper ones can be overwhelming. I had owned an Electro-Harmonix Soul Food and an MXR Boost, but decided to dump them because I thought they added unwanted noise to my pedal signal chain. Rummaging around one Saturday at my local shop I noticed the Mesa pedals. They were originally very expensive but were marked down and the guys in the shop demonstrated them for me. I grabbed the Tone Burst that day and the Flux Drive a month or two later. The Mesa pedals were produced by a company (Mesa/Boogie) that makes high-end guitar amplifiers so they know what they’re doing, the pedals were well reviewed, they are beautiful, well built objects and I got an excellent price for them. Bob’s your uncle…

Mesa does not make a plethora of pedals and they focus primarily on the gain/drive/boost sort. The Tone Burst is mostly a gentle boost and tone modifier, while the Flux Drive acts more like a pre-amplifier with the purpose of adding enough gain into the signal chain to overdrive the amplifier and create break-up or distortion.

Mesa Overdrive Pedals… Tone-Burst on the Left and Flux-Drive on the right… note Jacob’s recommended settings for the Taylor SBc when played through the Fender Princeton…

Despite almost a year of fiddling with guitar pedals I am still a relative neophyte, particularly with the application of gain and overdrive to the signal chain. As a general rule and personal preference, I do not like playing with a lot of distortion. I agree with the late great Charlie Christian who preferred his guitar to sound electrified but not electronic! Because gain pedals are so omnipresent, I put a couple of them on my board because I thought I needed them, but because I am loath to add distortion, I used the Tone-Burst to lightly thicken my sound and actually rarely utilized the Flux-Drive.

Jacob was adamant that it was time to deploy both Mesa pedals to get the SBc properly sounding. In fact, he had me rearrange the order of the two pedals, flipping the Flux-Drive from behind to in front of the Tone Burst in the sound chain. With this arrangement, the Flux-Drive would determine “how thick the bread slice would be.” In other words, the Flux-Drive would be used to fatten the sound, and then the signal would be “sculpted” afterwards by the Tone Burst to bring out appropriate “highs” and “mid-tones” as determined by Jacob. The goal was to be within the scope of sound quality that I am comfortable with, and that works well with the electrified country blues that I play.

Taylor T5z five-way selector switch set to 4th position to use both humbuckers in parallel

We left the modulation control settings on my pedal board, including Reverb, Delay, Vibrato, Tremolo, and Chorus the same as used with the T3, which can be found here. Jacob is not a big fan of pitch shifting, so we left use of my Octave pedal to my discretion. I like to the way it punches out the lower tones. And that was the end of our work with the Solid Body.

Jacob and I spent less time with the T5z mostly because it is a very acoustic-sounding electric guitar and though it can handle gain and distortion, it is not how I would ever play it. Plus it was getting late and we were getting tired. We did decide that for my purposes, using the 5 way selector switch in the 4th position to deploy both the “hidden” neck and stacked “lip-stick” humbuckers simultaneously and in parallel would be a good setting for my purposes.

Onboard preamp settings at neutral detent locations.

We dabbled with the onboard bass and treble controls provided with the guitar’s preamp but were inconclusive as to how to best set them, leaving them to my discretion. I tend to drop the treble and to increase the bass signal a bit to suit my ear. The preamp controls are actually very sensitive and a light touch best serves proper sculpting of tone.

Jacob’s settings to complement the T5z.

Finally, Jacob and I considered the broad array of pedals I have at my disposal for use with the T5z. We turned off the Flux Drive, which has true bypass, and left the remainder of the pedals set similarly to how I had them for the T3; however, Jacob saw fit to fine tune and adjust my chorus pedal to complement the T5z. I am actually not a big fan of chorus effects but Jacob was insistent that for the acoustic nature of the T5z, chorus is an important effect to use to sweeten the sound. As described by Reverb, “Chorus effects thicken your signal by copying it multiple times, coloring the copied signals, and playing them back slightly delayed.” Jacob readjusted every setting on the pedal while I played the guitar to best suit the T5z! I suppose I will use the chorus effect for a while to see if it suits me… As of this writing I actually prefer a bit of delay with my MXR Echoplex over the Boss Chorus…

Jacob and me at the end of our session…

So in the end, it was a great learning experience for me having Jacob make his house calls and was well worth the barter of the El Dorado guitar strap.

Open Mic Night and the Allure of Playing Country Blues Roots Music…

The scene at Cup of Joe in Cedar Falls during the early stages of Open Mic Night… Hosts Rick Vanderwall and Bill Guernsey…

It’s been two months since I played at Open Mic night at Cup of Joe, located in downtown Cedar Falls, IA… I missed the last one to attend a Wilco concert in Cedar Rapids.

Wilco playing at the Paramount in Cedar Rapids, IA

The Wilco show was a lot of fun and it was a treat seeing Nels Cline play guitar, as he is one of the top players in the country. The venue in which Wilco played was also quite marvelous. It was an ornately restored old downtown theater with marvelous acoustics.

Nevertheless, I was glad to be back at the Cup again with a chance to perform in a small intimate setting… I am clearly not a headline performer… instead, the specter of performing in front of people really motivates me to work at the craft of playing guitar!

Me and my Taylor Solid Body Custom Walnut, with a newly replaced neck…

In the above image, you can see I was delighted to be back. This is me posing before the coffee counter just before my performance… Call my performance costume, ” old man cool-eclectic.” 😁

It was a big night for me because I was going to play publicly, for the first time, Stefan Grossman’s arrangement of A Tribute to Lonnie Johnson… this piece is epic in length and requires a reasonable amount of finger-style skill to pull it off so for me at least it marked a stage of development along my guitar playing journey…

I’d been working on the Lonnie Johnson piece for weeks and weeks and though I’ve pretty much mastered it, it is still difficult for me to play it flawlessly even alone at home, so playing it publicly was going to be quite an adventure for me, but I was looking forward to seeing how well I could do.

A year ago, my fingers would sometime disassociate themselves from my brain on pieces of music much simpler than the Lonnie Johnson charts, so I set a high bar for myself.

Taylor T5z Pro Ltd; Molasses Burst…

I actually began working on the Lonnie Johnson piece using my newest guitar, shown above, the Taylor T5z Pro, which is an acoustic/electric hybrid that sounds great whatever you play on it, but especially nice when playing old finger-style country blues; however, at the last moment I decided to play that night on my Taylor Solid Body Custom, which you can see me holding above. After playing the T5z for weeks on end, I think I just needed a change of pace. I am holding the Solid Body in the photo at the top of this article. It is a lovely instrument and plays like butter… While the T5z plays beautifully too, it is bit more demanding than the Solid Body, and that is probably why I made the last moment switch…

I’ve written before on this weblog about finger-style blues and why I am so dedicated to that genre:

  1. It’s a musical style that can be played strictly instrumentally or accompanied by singing. In instrumental form, the music holds up on its own, so it is suitable for a single guitar player to perform without accompaniment. Since I have no interest in being in a band, this genre is perfect for me.
  2. Country blues pieces span from the elegantly simple to the moderately complex and there are available lots of charts and educational videos from which to learn, so it is a great genre to develop playing chops, which can be very satisfying.
  3. While there is a very active global community of country blues players, they are still diminutive in size compared to other musical genres, so it is a smaller fairly supportive group of players.
  4. As a baby boomer, I grew up with early rock ‘n roll and this music serves as its foundation. Country blues are THE essential roots of much of the popular music that I grew up with. My experience is that audiences are not exposed to country blues that often but like it when they hear it. Much more interesting than the millionth cover of Moondance they’ve heard before.
  5. While players use picks or strum through country blues, the really authentic way to play it is with the fingers. Finger-style playing is way too cool… just sayin’

As testament to the roots nature of country blues, I am embedding a link through the photo of classic bluesman Charlie Patton on the right. It leads to an interesting blog article that gives a nice comparative sampling of rock music to its original country blues form. The blog is called Please Kill Me… This is what is cool… Click on Charlie Patton and then come back!

Grant and me at Bob’s Guitars, our favorite hang out…

As is typical for me, I signed up to play first. There are actually only 6 15 minute slots available for open mic wannabes, so I usually get to the shop about 45 minutes before Rick and Bill, the hosts arrive and when they do I hit the sign-up sheet promptly. My friend Grant is almost always there too and he signs up to play second. In fact, we are hoping to play a full set on our own at the Cup some time in the near future!

That particular night I played in the following order:

  • A Tribute to Lonnie Johnson in Drop D tuning… (Stefan Grossman) – I did ok… shanked some into the rough, but pulled it off… at Open Mic it would be too challenging to record myself; however, I do have a decent sampling of Lonnie Johnson that I made at home, which is embedded below. Note that I am playing the T5z.
  • Spoonful in Drop D tuning… (Charlie Patton, arranged by Stefan Grossman) a briefer and lighter tune to cleanse the palette after the heavy low down Lonnie Johnson piece…
  • Cocaine Blues… (traditional, arranged by Stefan Grossman) a favorite of mine and the rare tune I have completely memorized… breezed through it… a crowd favorite too… a lovely, complex finger-style tune that stays at home in the top three frets… relaxing and also cleansing to play…
  • Police and a Sergeant… (Robert Wilkins, rearranged by Catfish Keith) I love this piece and it’s a great way to end the set. It’s very meaningful to me because I took a lesson with Catfish Keith to work on it! Last time I played it at the Cup, I pretty much lost my way and unravelled, though I got through it somehow… The other night I played it clean as country water…

Below you can see a photo that my wife took of me playing… it’s been post processed and posterized a bit to make it more fun… Note that I am for the first time performing with my iPad and foot pedal for page turning…

It was a great night closed out by the Jacobs playing some jazzed-up seasonal tunes!

The Jacobs knocking out jazzy holiday tunes…

Thanks also to my friend Grant for the call out at the end of my set! He played a fine set too!

The same old used to be? Or what’s up with buying a used guitar?

I own seven guitars, which to some may sound exorbitant but to most guitarists it’s not totally unreasonable. Of the seven, I only purchased two of them brand new… the other five were acquired on the used guitar market. Three of my used guitars are shown in the image directly above. There were other guitars too I owned in the past that I traded away for different guitars. Consequently, I have first hand knowledge of the cost of new guitars, savings made buying used guitars, and the financial losses associated with trading guitars. By the way, all of these aforementioned guitars that were bought or traded were premium, non-entry level, non-learner instruments.

Why purchase a used guitar? Well… because used guitars are like used cars… just like a new car loses value when it rolls off the lot, so does a new guitar and the value loss can be quite significant. There are exceptions to this rule. For example, collector level instruments like Keith Richards’ Telecaster, or Tony Rice’s pre-war Martin will hold value, if not increase in value over time. However, for the run of the mill premium guitar, expect a significant loss when walking out the door of the guitar shop.

On the other hand, great value can be acquired by purchasing a pre-owned or used instrument. Of the three guitars photographed above, I saved anywhere from 30 to 50 percent of the original cost, and they play as well as the day they were pulled off the wall hook and purchased new! Nevertheless, like buying a used car, I’ve learned that being able to critically assess a used guitar before purchase is a worthy skill to possess. Sadly for me, my used guitar assessment skills have been learned experientially not without some minor pain along the way.

All this begs the question: where is the best place to buy a used guitar? While there are probably multiple methods for acquiring a used guitar, I have direct experience with two common and reputable ways:

  1. From a local guitar store.
  2. Online with Reverb.

I’ve had a combination of good and mixed results with both of the aforementioned options and I will speak briefly to the various guitars that I purchased used and my results.

Guitars Purchased Used in Chronological Order:

National Steel NRP Black

I purchased a National Resonator Steel NRP from Reverb as my first recently acquired used guitar. An instrument of this type and caliber was not available in my home town so I went online.

As you might be aware, Reverb is an online national clearing house for used and new musical equipment. Similar to the way ABE Books works, vendors, retailers, and private sellers can use the Reverb portal to buy and sell instruments.

Reverb is an online disruptor, similar to Uber… it’s great for consumers but can create challenges for local guitar stores as buyers have more options… In fact, local Mom and Pop guitar stores are disappearing from the landscape and Reverb may be partially at fault. Fortunately, where I live we still have an excellent guitar shop and in fact, local shops like mine use Reverb too to sell instruments, so it is a knife that cuts in multiple directions.

What I like about Reverb is the potential for negotiation and there are built-in safeguards for both buyers and sellers. In the case of my purchase of the NRP, try as I might, the seller would not budge on his price, but it was more than 30% less than a new resonator and it was supposedly in excellent condition, so a I bought the thing because I really wanted a resonator.

The guitar arrived and it was in immaculate shape. Had it not been, through Reverb, I had the option to return it. My main quibble with this process is you do not get to play or hear the guitar before purchase, so there is a bit of blind faith. On the other hand, when you purchase a premium factory built guitar like a National, the odds are you will get a decent instrument and I did.

National ResoRocket WB

After playing the National Steel NRP, I decided that it would be a great experience to also play a wooden bodied National, so I started shopping around. I ended up looking in Reverb, of course, and then I also communicated with an eccentric collector who was thinking of selling one of his many. Fact is, National makes several wooden bodied resonators and I was unsure of what to get. In the end, I found an immaculate wood bodied National ResoRocket the Dream Guitars was selling via Reverb. Via my iPhone, I was able to negotiate a reasonable reduction from the listed price with the owner Paul Heumiller and closed the deal with a click, and earned another large cost savings of +30% relative to a new guitar.

The guitar arrived in near mint shape, looking brand spanking new and I was not surprised because the combination of purchasing from a dealer who sells premium guitars priced in the 10’s of thousands with Reverb’s protections is a winning combination.

Taylor T5c Hybrid Acoustic/Electric Guitar

My Taylor T5c is a great example of a used guitar purchased in my local shop. The guitar was about 10 years old and in very nice shape. I had a chance to play it several times before I decided to make an offer. In this case I knew exactly what the guitar would sound like.

For a 10 year old guitar, it was in very nice, not “mint” condition, but that should be expected. There was some hazing in the upper bout near the cutaway from where the previous owner tried to buff out, what I would guess, were pick marks. Taylor’s T5’s are not equipped with pick guards and the owner did not mount one after purchase. At my request, the store gave the guitar a more professional buffing and though there is still some minor hazing, it is very difficult to see. I do not like or need pick guards because I play strictly finger-style.

The five way pick-up selector was pretty grungy with embedded dust, but the store guys cleaned that too and also worked out some static crackling that occurred when the pre-amp volume knob was adjusted.

When it comes to purchasing a pre-owned instrument, I don’t think it is unreasonable to barter before closing the deal. In the case of the Taylor T5, the guitar store owner served as an intermediary because the guitar was being sold on consignment basis, which means he gets a slice of the pie. As a result of negotiation I was able to get the price reduced a bit by agreeing to pay for the guitar with crisp $100 bills… I kid you not… It was a little annoying but also kind of fun going to the bank down the street and picking up the wad of cash to close the deal.

Truss rod cover is the triangular shaped, thin piece of wood screwed into the lower portion of the headstock, just above the nut.

Finally, it is important to note that despite due diligence in the store, a used guitar can possess hidden issues. In this case, when I got home I removed the truss rod cover to adjust the neck angle to suit my purposes and found that one of the screw holes for holding the cover onto the headstock was stripped, so that the screw just sat in the hole with no grip. That discovery was irritating, but not a deal breaker and though it is arguably minor, I point it out because there can be mysteriously hidden damages when buying a used instrument. We’ll see more of that in the following discussion.

The Taylor T3c just below was also purchased as used from my local guitar shop. The negotiations were complicated because I traded in a Gretsch guitar on the deal. That kind of arrangement would have been impossible on Reverb, so there are advantages to working locally.

Further, as with the aforementioned Taylor T5c, I was able to play the guitar at length and determine that it was a fit for my playing style, so I grabbed it. The guitar was about 4 years old and appeared immaculate, or so I thought.

Taylor T3c Semi Hollow Bodied Electric

In retrospect it would be ideal when purchasing a used guitar, for time to be taken to examine it centimeter by centimeter before closing the deal.

In my case, had I looked more closely I would have noticed a crack about 2 inches long located along the side at the lower bout where my picking arm would rest. When I got home and discovered the damage. The more I regarded the guitar’s damage, the more appalled I became because it looked like the binding was detaching from the body’s side which is pretty serious.

I brought the guitar back to the shop the next day deeply concerned, but they “pulled me off the ledge” by deftly repairing the crack with cyanoacrylate glue followed by buffing. It is barely visible now, but I know it’s there. Most of the time I can ignore it.

Just noticeable body crack located under the binding after repair.

The Taylor T3c is one of my favorite guitars ever and I was not even aware that Taylor manufactured them, and had it not been for a used one hanging on a hook in my local store I probably would have never purchased one. Still, my experience with this acquisition suggests two things: 1) closely examine a used instrument before finalizing the deal, and 2) if you buy locally, it is likely the store will stand by the purchase and make things right, if necessary!

The last guitar I will use as an example for buying a pre-owned instrument is my most recently acquired Taylor Solidbody Custom Walnut. I decided that I wanted experience playing a sold body guitar and discovered that Taylor Corporation manufactured them for a few brief years beginning around 2007. I am very fond of Taylor necks compared to those on Fenders and Gibsons so I went hunting for one. Since there were none in my local shop, I went online with Reverb and found a handful of them for sale.

Taylor Solid Body Custom (SBc)

It is possible to ascertain the going value for a used guitar by studying the sale price listing for the various guitar models. Further, if you drill down on the Reverb site you can actually find what the specific guitars sold for over the past 6 months or so. With that data in hand I negotiated with a seller, who happened to live just a few hours away from me and we struck a deal, including a personal drop of in the small town of Lisbon, IA.

We met on the main street of diminutive Lisbon and the seller lifted the rear of his SUV and then opened the somewhat beaten-up guitar case. To my initial view, the guitar looked immaculate; however, I was to learn a couple of days later that I really did not possess the wherewithal to make a true assessment of a used guitar.

As I said above, a couple of days later, it was pointed out by the owner of my local guitar shop that the neck of my newly acquired Solid BodyTaylor was twisted and in time I figured out that it was largely unplayable. Rather than return the guitar back to the original owner, I decided to send it to the Taylor Corporation for repair. When they received it, they said the only solution was a neck replacement, which they did as a warrantee repair even though I was at least the third owner of the guitar. What a great company because they did not need to do this service for me. Perhaps, because I owned 6 Taylors (including one I gave my son) they threw me a bone!

Well as you can see from the photos above, the neck replacement is far better than the original, but I was very lucky with this purchase to get it repaired to mint condition for the cost of shipping from Iowa to California and back. So in conclusion, caveat emptor, or let the buyer beware when entering into the used guitar market! Good luck out there!

Guitars and innovations, wood & steel… Taylor Guitars…

If you’ve looked into this nascent blog as it’s developing, it’s quite apparent that I allocate a significant proportion of my time in retirement to guitars… in fact, you could argue that at this stage of my life I am a bit obsessive about playing, and the technology associated with the instrument…

I get a great deal of satisfaction from working with my Taylor guitars, across the spectrum of acoustic, hybrid acoustic/electric, semi-hollow bodied electric, and solid body electric (currently on a UPS truck to Iowa after being repaired by Taylor!).

The commonality among all those guitars is the neck. The neck is where the rubber meets the road for a player and includes such key factors as the contour (radius) of the wood, its finish, and the height of the strings from the fretboard. It’s very easy to switch among the Taylors from one to the other because of neck consistency.

There is a substantial degree of snobbery associated with guitar culture. Traditions play a major role, such as the headstock decal for Martin guitars… I don’t like them, but that’s just me… One of the things that distinguishes the Taylor company besides marvelously playable guitars is their devotion to innovation and technology. Though a bit dated (the below instruments have evolved or been pulled off the market), the embedded Youtube video with Bob Taylor and Brian Swerdfeger speaks to the interesting tech that underlies two of the guitars that I’ve purchased off the used marketplace.

Swerdfeger moved on to Fender to develop a different acoustic/electric hybrid, the Acoustasonic…

Guitars and the company’s that support their product…

I do not own a Martin guitar, but there are enough well-established guitarists who swear by them to make me believe that to certain players they possess their share of fairy dust and music magic. I think the same is true for Gibson guitars too, both acoustic and electric.

Me… I prefer Taylor guitars… On and off through the years, I’ve owned eight of them. My first serious solid wood acoustic guitar was a Taylor that I used to replace a starter Yamaha back around 1994. That was a spruce and mahogany large bodied “dread” best used for flat-picking. It was traded a long time ago but is probably still serving someone well because Taylor builds an excellent instrument. Since that time, I’ve accumulated two Taylor acoustics and three electrics, and then there’s another Taylor acoustic that I handed down to my son Parker.

Taylor 510, like my first purchase…

Acoustic guitars (and for that matter electrics) produce their own idiosyncratic sounds based upon design philosophy, so Taylor’s, Martin’s and Gibson’s all have their own characteristic tones. For me the Taylor’s offer a nicely balanced tonal range and great presence so they just appeal to my ear. If you ever become more interested in Taylor Guitars there is a wonderful memoir by Bob Taylor about the founding of the company.

Bob Taylor memoir… an excellent read…

Beyond the instrument itself, another thing I love about Taylor guitars is the support offered by the company itself. I’ve had two instruments that required repair, both of which did not fall strictly within their warranty; however they stood by their product and repaired them (actually as I write one is currently in for repair, but that’s another story), just charging me for shipping to and from California where their main factory is located. For me, that kind of product support is a huge difference maker.

This morning I discovered the below attached video demonstrating the periodic maintenance that an acoustic guitar requires. In this case it is a Martin having some neck, nut and bridge repair work done at their home factory in Pennsylvania. My small bodied Taylor 812 required bridge replacement similar to what’s seen in this video. A large chip broke off the bridge when I was changing its strings. Taylor did a lovely job replacing it. You can surmise in this posting as well as elsewhere in this weblog, I am quite fond of Taylor Guitars.