The Immaculate Santa Cruz H-13… My favorite all time guitar?

Introduction

National Reso-Lectric

I’ve written on this blog before that I lose patience with a guitar that no longer calls to me and as a result will consider it trade worthy for an instrument that I’d put to greater use. There’s too much financial value and physical space being occupied by an unused guitar. If you follow this blog, you may remember that I owned a National Reso-Lectric, and enjoyed it for several years, but then I subsequently acquired a National M-1, which is, in my judgement, the ultimate resonator and found afterwards that I had to force myself to pull the Reso-Lectric from it’s case!

At the time this story takes place, I was still residing in Iowa and was about a 2.5 hour drive from one of the largest guitar stores in the Midwest, Dave’s Guitars. An interesting thing about Dave’s is that they facilitate guitar trades through internet communication. Fill out an online form, send some photos and they’ll give you a trade value in very short order. I like this trade approach much more so than the tire kicking, frowning, hair pulling , hemming and hawing that can happen at a smaller Mom and Pop shop. So, I sent Dave’s the scoop on my Reso-Lectric and they got back to me with a reasonable price the same day.

Iowa countryside

Shortly thereafter on a gray December morning back in 2022, I loaded the Reso-Lectric into my vehicle and headed out to Dave’s to see what was what. I was not in the market for an electric guitar, as the one I had was all I think I would ever want or need. In fact, the differing tonal voices of electric guitars were not of interest to me, but that was not true about acoustic guitars. Varying shapes, body depths, wood compositions, bracing techniques, 12 vs 14 frets, glues, and finishes all, in my experience, contributed to the magical tonality of acoustic guitars. So, when I took off for Dave’s, it was acoustic guitars I was going to look at.

Me and Dave’s burgeoning inventory

I think because the national economy was slowing down a bit, Dave’s acoustic guitar inventory was actually accumulating for a change. The past few years there was a Covid related feeding frenzy in guitar stores. Collings guitars, for example, flew off the hooks at Dave’s making it near impossible to test out their very popular OM model. I knew as I was driving over to Wisconsin that Dave’s actually had a couple of Collings OM’s in stock and they even had a solitary Santa Cruz acoustic in stock too!

I’d been aware of Santa Cruz guitars for decades since I first saw an advertisement in a guitar mag with Tony Rice playing a Santa Cruz knock-off (even with the odd oversized sound hole) of his famous Martin D-28. I’d also sat next to Catfish Keith in his home and listened to him play his Santa Cruz signature small bodied guitar with the Catfish logo inlaid on the headstock. Keith’s guitar was awesome sounding, so I was very interested in test driving a Santa Cruz acoustic.

Acoustic Captain JR at Dave’s Guitars

When I got to the store, the acoustic guitar sales manager, JR set me up with a downstairs audition room to try out both a Collings OM and the Santa Cruz which was an H-13 model. Since the acoustic guitar sales room can be very busy and noisy, it was great to be able to quietly sit and contemplate the playability and tonality of the two guitars side by side. I switched back and forth between the two several times and stayed down there for quite some time. Both guitars were similar in that they were smaller Mahogany bodies with Spruce tops, but the similarities ended there. They looked completely different and, in the details, built differently. More on that later.

Santa Cruz H-13 in the audition room

Guitar shopping at Dave’s is a double-edged sword. As a customer, you are pretty much on your own. The guys working there are so busy that they really do not have time to chase you around to cajole you into a sale. Internet sales are the preponderance of their business so they are often preoccupied with moving product out the door. Unlike a Mom and Pop store, it’s difficult to establish much of a personal relationship with the folks in that store. I’d purchased several guitars in the store and Dave, the owner, barely acknowledged me because his customer base is so large and his attention spread so thin. This was a far different atmosphere from the very personalized Casino Guitars where I recently purchased a Lowden F-50. Nevertheless, I managed on my own to come to a conclusion as to which guitar I liked most and whether or not I would make a purchase.

The H-13 ready to roll

Both the Collings OM and the Santa Cruz were exceptionally playable, but the H-13 was a beast by comparison with greater depth and breadth of tone, possessing an expansive bottom in the bass range and some serious headroom with sparkling treble highs. It was a full spectrum cannon! The H-13’s sonic advantage during my audition may have been the combination of body depth being 3/4 of an inch deeper than the OM, Adirondack Spruce vs Sitka Spruce bracings under a European Spruce vs Sitka Spruce sound board and the 13 fret vs 14 fret neck to body join allowing ideal placement of the bridge on the body for the H-13. Both guitars were built with hot hide glue, so no advantage there. The H-13 is the lightest guitar I’ve ever held, which I think contributed to its far greater resonance as a stringed instrument. I was sold by the Santa Cruz H-13 and decided to complete its purchase with the trade of the Reso-Lectric.

Finally, I may have been recognized as a good customer during this visit to Dave’s Guitars, because JR threw in an installed K&K Mini pickup for no additional charge. After installation of the pickup, I headed back home to Iowa.


I Review the Santa Cruz H-13

General Observations

The Santa Cruz H-13, a medium sized premium guitar, was described recently by an acquaintance as a “museum piece.” This was from an accomplished musician with a long professional history, including back up and recording work with Chris Smither. Nevertheless, despite its elegant beauty, it is a simple looking instrument with just a few embellishments, including a slot head with ivoroid tuners, a sunburst finish, and an S29 top purfling, The real beauty of this guitar is how it sounds and handles.

Design Inspiration

Richard Hoover in the Santa Cruz shop

There are small scale guitar manufacturers like Santa Cruz and Collings who specialize in precision made instruments that often take their inspiration from guitars manufactured during the early to mid part of the 20th century. The old vintage Martins and Gibsons that people pay enormous sums for serve as a design jumping off point, from which boutique manufacturers copy design features but also implement modern techniques, design enhancements and small scale builder advantages with a good deal of old world handwork. Richard Hoover of Santa Cruz has made an incredibly successful run as a thoughtful and exceptionally skillful small scale guitar manufacturer, roundly regarded as one of the best in the industry. His vision is to bring the traditions of the ancient violin masters to the steel string guitar. Below you can see a video in which Hoover discusses his approach to guitar making:


Dylan and his Nick Lucas Special

Now, as I understand it, the H-13 is inspired by the 1930’s era Gibson Nick Lucas Special. The initial impetus for Santa Cruz’s decision to create the H-13, as we know today, is credited to the late, well known luthier, Paul Hostetter. The original Special was actually made in a variety of styles and shapes; some with trapeze and others with pin bridges, 12, 13 or 14 frets, and varying tone woods. It was Gibson’s first artist endorsed guitar and what made it special was its extra body depth, which Nick Lucas wanted for a more robust bass tone. I believe Santa Cruz, at the behest of Paul Hostetter, decided to use the Gibson L-00 shape with 13 frets and the deeper body as the basis for their design, which I think is also the version that Bob Dylan made so notable early in his career.

During the height of the Covid pandemic lock-down, accomplished musician, Steve Earle did a series of Youtube videos about his vast guitar collection, which serves as an excellent history of highly valued vintage Martin and Gibson guitars. In the video below, Earle gives some historic background about the Nick Lucas Special:


Here’s an actual film of Nick Lucas playing his signature Gibson:


Finally, in this clip from D.A. Pennebaker’s film Don’t Look Back, ultra badass, Blonde on Blonde era Bob Dylan plays his Special in England where he pretty much schools Donovan during that gathering… Dylan is like a wound spring watching Donovan sing one of his ditties, and he’s waiting to explode outwards with a far more sophisticated tune than Donovan could ever imagine playing. After Dylan basically rips his guitar from Donovan’s hands and starts to play, you can see Donovan sink into himself in a defensive posture… Game over man…


Notable Elements of the Santa Cruz H-13

Slotted Headstock (front)

Starting at the top end of the guitar, the H-13 is built with a slotted headstock topping off a “standard Mahogany” neck. Hoover uses the term “standard Mahogany” to note that Santa Cruz’s mahogany is responsibly harvested from a former British plantation. This he speaks to in the video I embedded above. Based on my research, standard Mahogany is Swietenia macrophylla, commonly referred to as Honduran or Big Leaf Mahogany. The face of the headstock is elegantly simple with no binding, but enhanced with an ebony veneer and a Santa Cruz script logo inlaid with ivoroid on the top front. Santa Cruz offers multiple logo types in varying locations when purchased as a custom made guitar. If you refer to the Santa Cruz website for the H-13, there are multiple features that can be chosen when ordering the guitar from scratch, which I obviously did not do having bought this item “off the rack” at Dave’s..

Slotted Headstock (side and rear)

Slotted headstocks are often used with guitars built with less than 14 frets as an aesthetic identifier, but also to alter tonality by creating a steeper break angle at the nut causing the string to exert more downward pressure, consequently driving more energy into the guitar when the string is plucked. I like how slotted headstocks look, but they are more tedious to restring.

To the right you can see a side/rear view of the headstock. You’ll note the “open back” or “open gear” Waverly nickel tuners with white ivoroid buttons, which are design consistent with the vintage guitar from which the H-13 takes its inspiration. The Waverly’s work just fine, but they are not near as buttery as the closed back Gotoh’s on my Lowden F-50, which are built onto a paddle-style headstock. What makes the closed back Gotoh’s so good is their high turning ratio, thus tuning is more smooth and precise. Gotoh does produce a slotted headstock “opened back” tuner but having never played with them, I am not sure that they are any better than the Waverly’s.

To the left, you can see a lower section of the neck and the upper bout of the body to where it is attached. The preponderance of steel string guitars are either 12 or 14 frets, but in the case of the H-13, it is 13 frets. According to the Santa Cruz website, the 13 fret neck, combined with the bridge location allows a longer string length which, combined with a deeper body, creates a very powerful small bodied guitar. I can attest to that!

The neck is a solid piece of mahogany, serving as a platform for an ivoroid bound ebony fingerboard. The V-shaped neck, attached precisely to the body with a traditional dovetail join, feels full in hand and is exceptionally comfortable to play. Finally, you’ll note the fretboard is unadorned with inlay keeping to the elegantly simplicity of the H-13.

The H-13 Soundboard

There was a time in my life when I thought that owning a fancy guitar with inlays and other adornments was a sign of musical accomplishment. I’ve since traded off my fancy guitars for those made with old school sensibilities where the emphasis is on tonality as well as playability, and for the most part they are much simpler in appearance with fewer adornments like wood bindings and inlaid Abalone. I have a fondness for old school ivoroid bindings which adorn many boutique guitars inspired by vintage instruments.

European Spruce Top

The top of the H-13 is lovely; however, it boasts no unnecessary adornments, with the possible exception of the S29 purfling, “a pattern best described as a herringbone split with line of colored-wood marquetry.” The ivoroid rosette, the tortoise pick guard and the ebony pyramid bridge are all old school simplicity. Nevertheless, the high gloss nitrocellulose finish overlaying the sunburst top makes the H-13 a glory to behold.

A good bit of the tonal magic of the H-13 lies with the soundboard itself. In the case of my H-13, the standard Sitka Spruce is substituted out with European Spruce, originating from the Italian/Swiss border. Often used to build classical guitars, European Spruce is also frequently selected by boutique builders of steel guitars. “It has a sound rich in overtones, while it offers some of the headroom of Adirondack and a quicker response than Sitka, but with a warmer, thicker tone.” All in all it is a tonality that appeals to finger style players like me.

As I understand it, the sound board is tap toned at Santa Cruz to fine tune how it’s braced. In the case of my H-13, the bracings are Adirondack spruce. Theoretically, Adirondack provides greater strength and stiffness with less weight than Sitka. It generally allows for a lighter-braced top, which makes it more responsive.

Below Tommy Sands elaborates on the nuances of European Spruce:


The back and sides of H-13 are standard Mahogany. At first glance, the use of Mahogany for the back and sides of a premium guitar may seem a poorly conceived choice. Remember, Mr. Martin used Rosewood on his top-of-the-line D-28 and reserved Mahogany for the somewhat “less than” D-18. That preconception of Mahogany being a second rate tone wood still exists today. A local luthier Rob Sharer dismisses that prejudice writing that “Where (Mahogany) really shines, though, is when it is used for the back and sides of a steel-string acoustic guitar. Less dense than the rosewood species, its medium weight and open grain produce both warmth and punch, de-emphasizing the bass register while accentuating the crucial midrange, which, after all, is the guitar’s home turf in the tonal spectrum… For the player who values a dry, crunchy, punchy sound, mahogany gets the nod over rosewood’s rum-jug bass and metallic overtones.”

In sum

The Santa Cruz H-13, built to exacting standards with first rate woods and components, is still more than the sum of its parts. The guitar is feather light, but has a huge warm voice. As expected for Mahogany back and sides, it’s punchy in the mid-tones; however, the deep body and the very responsive European Spruce top offers the player surprisingly resonant bass tones and sparkling highs for a mid-sized guitar. This guitar is an absolute delight to hold and play. It is a finger style player’s delight. During the week, I try to cycle through my guitar collection on a daily basis and always look forward to H-13 day!

If you want to dig deeper into Richard Hoover’s guitar building philosophy, where he brings to bear the skills of the ancient violin makers onto steel string guitars, here’s an inside look at Santa Cruz’s shop providing intimate detail on guitar construction philosophy. After watching this, I consider it a true blessing to own one of these marvelous instruments.


Santa Cruz H-13 Tone Samples

Elizabeth Cotton – Freight Train

Drop D Fishin’ Blues

Carl Miner of the North American Guitar rocking out on an H-13 spec’d out like mine…

On Building a Pedalboard for My Acoustic Guitars

At Dave’s Guitars, the Acoustic Room Manager

Late last year 2021, I was at Dave’s Guitars in LaCrosse, WI and it was there that I acquired my first Collings acoustic, a 0002H. Since I perform monthly live at an Open Mic Night that I host with a friend, and because I like to play through an acoustic amp when I play at home, I requested that the shop install a pick up in the guitar before I headed back home to Iowa.

K&K Pure Mini Pickup

The gentleman who manages the acoustic guitar department was emphatic that the best pickup for a Collings acoustic guitar was the K&K Pure Mini because it was generally transparent sounding, way less prone to feedback, and relatively easy to install.

L.R. Baggs Venue DI with tone controls and tuner

A challenge with a passive pickup like the K&K Pure Mini is the absence of a preamp/equalizer to control guitar tonality, such as bass, mids and treble, as well as to boost the signal. My previous acoustic guitars were Taylors which had a preamp/equalizer and pickup installed as part of the guitar itself, so I was at a bit of a loss, until my Dave’s guy suggested that I should also purchase a DI/Preamp with built in equalizer to manage the pickup, and he recommended the L.R. Baggs Venue for the job. When I suggested that I already owned a rather extensive pedalboard that I used with my electric guitars which might accomplish the same thing, he visibly shuddered and said he would never, ever run a Collings acoustic guitar through those electronics. It would be a major compromise to the guitar’s tone, which is what Collings guitars were all about!

At a gig with the Venue DI & 0002H

So, I ordered an L.R. Baggs Venue and put it to good use when I played a gig at one of our local coffee shops. The 0002H was cabled into the Venue which was then cabled into a Bose T4s Mixer and then on into a Bose L1 Pro PA and it worked well enough.

Still, I was unsure whether or not I had the best possible tool kit at my disposal for projecting the best possible tone from my Collings. Consequently, I started digging around the internet and discovered that the L.R. Baggs Company in the past few years has developed a line of pedals that were specifically attuned to the unique complexities and frequencies of acoustic guitars. They’re referred to as the Align series of acoustic pedals, and include a compressor, a DI, an equalizer, a reverb, a delay, and a chorus.

L.R. Baggs Session Compressor Pedal

In my judgement an essential pedal for all amplified guitars is a compressor, because to me it makes the guitar sound better. Most importantly the compressor levels the dynamics of different strings, which can be very helpful in making the guitarist sound more pleasant, especially when playing fingerstyle. As you can see on the right, the L.R. Baggs compressor has a simple layout with volume and gain controls at the top. I use just enough gain to keep the signal flowing through the chain as I don’t want gain fattening up the signal beyond what I perceive to be a natural acoustic tone. The various pedals in the signal chain all have some form of volume control, some of which alter the guitar’s overall dry signal and other control the loudness of the effect the pedal was designed for. I tend to keep the loudness/volume controls set close to mid-point and do final volume control at the Venue DI or the Amp/PA. The effects volume is set to keep the effect subtle and not to overwhelm the guitar’s dry signal.

The Compressor’s saturate knob can “enrich” the tone, but with a Collings I don’t find that a necessity, so I keep it tuned down so as not to affect the natural brilliance built into the guitar. Where the “rubber meets the road” is the comp eq knob and here is where the guitar tonal dynamics are controlled. What I do is adjust the knob, and then back and forth mute or activate the combined Session compressor and Venue DI so that I eventually get the natural sound of the guitar unplugged but simply louder when the signal chain is engaged, and “By-Jiminy” it works!

In truth, the combination of the Venue DI and Session Compressor would be enough if all you wanted during a performance was the natural sound of the guitar amplified. During the time that I possessed just those two pedals I ran them in series with the guitar into the compressor, then feeding directly into the Venue. When I used the chromatic tuner that is built into the Venue, I would turn the compressor off before hand so that a clean signal reached the tuner.

L.R. Baggs Reverb

The fact is, sometimes I like to use tone modulation pedals in very light doses to add mood or flavor to the guitar’s basic tone. Consequently, I anticipated eventually adding the L.R. Baggs Reverb and Delay pedals to the signal chain. I sold some old pedals I was not using and purchased the Reverb first.

Again, as with the Compressor, the control knobs for the Reverb are fairly simple. No choices of multiple types of Reverb are available as typical on pedals such as those manufactured by Boss or Neunaber. L.R. Baggs engineered a Reverb signal they thought best complemented an acoustic guitar, and I like it. In the case of this Reverb pedal, the volume and tone controls just alter the reverb effect and not the guitar’s dry signal. Also onboard are knobs to adjust the amount of reverb and the decay, which is the duration of the effect. As I said before, with an acoustic guitar like a Collings, if I engage reverb, I like to do it with subtlety.

FX Loop Input/Output in rear of Venue DI

After studying the L.R. Baggs Venue literature, I decided to reroute my pedals from a straight line configuration, meaning they connect to each other train car style, one after the other, until they reach the Venue as last entry point. Instead, I chose to use the Venue’s EFX loop with input and output jacks located in the back of the device. Basically the Compressor and Reverb pedals are lassoed together and run via a cabled loop into and out of the Venue’s rear. As I understand it, the native signal from a guitar’s passive pickup, such as my K&K Pure Mini, is not particularly strong. Consequently, it is prudent to use effects pedals after the guitar’s signal is strengthened by the Venue’s Preamp. Theoretically, this results in a cleaner signal for the pedals to manipulate, giving precise and more audibly pleasing control over the effects. Effects such as Reverb and Delay would clearly benefit from flowing through the EFX loop. Whether or not the Compressor belongs in the EFX loop or is instead located before the preamp can be debated; however, I have it located in the loop and it sounds just fine to me.

L.R. Baggs Delay

I completed the signal modulation section of my acoustic pedalboard with the acquisition of the L.R. Baggs Align Delay pedal. This pedal too is tied into the EFX loop and I tend to set it to give a subtle slapback effect, which, when used adds some further depth to the guitar’s tonality. To maintain subtlety, I limit the delay time with the delay knob, limit the number of repeats per unit time and keep the time of the delay relatively brief. The tone knob controls the brightness or darkness of the delay effect and I tend to keep that setting relatively neutral.

It is apparent via this discussion that I tend to use modulation and compression pedals in this configuration in a “set it and forget it” mode. I don’t like fiddling about with the pedals especially when performing. On the other hand, I do have separate Venue DI equalizer settings depending on which guitar I am using. I keep a photograph of the settings for the 0002H and the C10-35 on my iPad, and can easily adjust if I switch guitars when playing.

The last pedal on my board, which is a Korg tuner, really should not have been a necessity because the Venue DI has a built-in, onboard chromatic tuner. Sadly, it is not as responsive as other tuners I’ve used, and I lost confidence in its accuracy because of its oddball circular LED interface. Consequently, I added the KORG pedal and it works just fine! The raw guitar signal feeds directly into the Korg, which then cables into the Venue DI.

A handmade George L patch chord

It is worth noting that I use George L patch chords on both of my pedalboards. They are infinitely variable lengthwise because you build them yourself and have discretion as to how long the patch chord wire is. At my local shop, you purchase the plugs individually and the wire is paid for by the length. I keep a small coil of wire at home. The plugs are all nickel colored and the wire comes in multiple colors including black, blue, white and red. You build the patch chord by cutting the wire and then removing the cap to the plug. This is followed by inserting the wire into the opened plug and finally screwing the plug’s cap back down, which cuts the insulation on the wire and creates a proper circuit. I also use the optional rubber stress relief caps that keep the plug cap from unscrewing, which can happen over time. The George L’s are pricey. You can make 6 patch chords for roughly $100. My guitar shop guys consider them the best in the marketplace, but opinions around the web vary.

Genzler Acoustic Array Pro Amp

It goes without saying that an essential element in the signal chain is the amplifier itself. I currently use the Genzler Acoustic Array Pro amp and am very pleased with it. It offers a lovely transparent amplification of the guitar’s signal, which is a necessity when so much has been invested in the tonality of a Collings guitar. I would not want my guitars signal colored by the amp. The Genzler offers two channels, as well as chorus and reverb effects. I keep the effects turned off because I choose to use my pedals instead.

At home, I use one channel of the Genzler for the guitar and the other to practice singing my tunes. I own a very nice Sennheiser e965 condenser mic, which requires phantom power. Sadly, the Genzler’s phantom power is too wimpy to work with the e965, so I had to purchase a rechargeable phantom power booster that I stick between the mic and the amp and that works out adequately. I have not taken the Genzler out for a gig because I use a Bose L1 Pro PA; however, the Genzler is ready to go if I decide to use it. There is a socket built into the bottom of the amp so that it can be mounted on a stand at ear level for the audience.

The complete Acoustic Pedalboard

Above you can see the completed pedalboard. While there’s room for another pedal like the L.R. Baggs Align Chorus, I think this signal chain offers more than enough tone altering capability, without being excessive. You will note the pedals are velcro mounted on a Pedaltrain Classic JR chassis. Bolted below is a Pedaltrain Spark power block that offers 5 isolated power channels. Sadly, the Spark is no longer manufactured, but there are other power blocks in the marketplace. On my electric guitar pedalboard I use the excellent Walrus Audio Phoenix.

Below I offer some tone samples using various pedal combinations for both my Collings C10-35 and then my 0002H. I recorded the clips with an iPhone 11, equipped with a Shure MV88 mic plugged into its jack, and did final processing in Apple’s iMovie. The recordings are probably best appreciated with decent headphones.

The sound samples from the C10-35 are drawn from the music that accompanies Blaze Foley’s Clay Pigeons:


The sound samples from the 0002H are drawn from the music that accompanies Steve Earle’s Fort Worth Blues:


On Building a Guitar Pedalboard

Or, my zig zag journey through the guitar signal chain,,,

Taylor 914ce

Introduction

When I returned to serious guitar playing about 5 years ago, I was almost exclusively devoted to acoustic guitar playing, so when I sauntered through my local guitar shop and observed the glass cases full of smallish, multi-colored, knobbed-up, rectangular metal boxes (i.e. pedals), I was simultaneously curious and intimidated.

Though I’d played guitar, on and off for many years, it was straight up, non-amplified acoustic music. It was only after I returned to serious playing that I decided to purchase an amplifier for the first time by acquiring a nice new Fishman Loudbox Artist. Even then the onboard “effects” such as reverb and chorus were a mystery to me, so I did not deploy them.

Fishman Loudbox Artist

It was not until I decided that I wanted to experience playing an electric guitar, that I first considered acquiring an effects pedal. Without giving the initial guitar purchase the deeper thought and consideration it deserved, (a common theme for me), I acquired a Gretsch Silver Falcon, which was a very showy guitar that was way outside my capabilities, but I eventually adjusted to playing it. I never could shake the fact that I felt a poseur owning it and never could get the instrument to not sound thin and reedy to my ears. It was not the amp, because I played it through a Fender Princeton Black Face reissue.

Gretsch Falcon and Fender Princeton

After consultation with my guitar teacher, I followed his recommendation and purchased my first pedal to “fatten-up” the Falcon’s sound. Consequently, the first pedal I owned was an Electro-Harmonix Soul Food overdrive, which was, as explained to me, a clone (copy) of one of the most famous overdrives ever made called the Klon Centaur. People pay big bucks to acquire an original Klon, but a clone was fine with me as it was relatively inexpensive. The purchase of this pedal is a good example of me failing to do my own due diligence and research the Soul Food pedal before acquiring it. My reliance on others to recommend pedals because of their mysterious nature has led me to frequently buy, trade and replace them, which is not the low cost means of building a pedal board! On the other hand, my experience with pedals is that you really must live with one in your signal chain for an extended period before concluding their true value and worth to your music.

Soul Food pedal in the background

I used the Soul Food lightly and judiciously, meaning that I did not crank the key drive effect up as the sound it produced from the guitar was pretty distorted and did not suit my sensibilities. At heart I am a “clean” player being influenced largely by my years of playing acoustic guitar, straight up, with no sound effects. A metal, head banger I am not nor will I ever be. So, for quite a while I was satisfied with owning a single overdrive pedal and using it in the most subtle fashion..

Perfomer using a largish pedal board to great effect at Open Mic night..

Then, one Friday night at an Open Mic Night at our local coffee shop (Cup of Joe), I listened to one of the performers who’d been sitting with me at my table and was fascinated by the sound modulation of his guitar, which I subsequently figured out was tremolo. When he sat down after performing, I asked him what in the world he’d done to get that sound. He said he’d used a pedal! I’d heard tremolo on records before like the bridge section (see below) of the Rollings Stones’, Exile on Main Street tune, Rocks Off, or Tommy James’s Crimson and Clover, but I was unaware you could do the same thing in the Coffee Shop (naive me)…


Jumpin’ In With Both Feet

My first pedal board, second iteration

As a result of attending the aforementioned Open Mic session, it finally occurred to me that pedals can offer an interesting opportunity to alter the tonalities of a guitar. Being so new to electric guitar playing, I was totally unaware of these possibilities! Consequently, at my next lesson, I spent a session with my guitar teacher specking out a pedal board.

To begin with, a physical platform to mount the pedals is not entirely necessary, as one can simply link the pedals together on the floor to create a signal train from the guitar output cable through the pedals and finally into the amp. A board, typically metal, to mount the pedals is much more elegant, stable, and portable solution.

I learned quickly that to create a series of connected pedals frequently referred to as signal chain, you must have the following:

  1. A line out from the guitar that connects to the first pedal in series (there are more complicated arrays that can include “effects loops” with single and multiple amps or noise suppressors, but I like keep it pretty simple, which enhances portability and field set-up).
  2. Connectors lines between pedals referred to as patch cables. There are many types of patch cables to choose from ranging in appearance, connective quality and price. In my judgment, quality signal transfer is paramount, given the investment in guitar, amp and pedals themselves… the wrong place to economize is with patch cables. The guys in my local shop swear by the George L patch cable system, so that’s what I went with. They’re pricey but very flexible particularly in terms of desired patch cable length between pedals..
  3. A board to mount the pedals. Boards can be homemade or store bought. They’re made flat or inclined and in varying sizes, depending on how many pedals you wish to mount. In my case, I bought a Pedaltrain board constructed of welded steel (I think), mostly because that’s what my shop sold at the time. The board was big enough to hold 4 vertically arrayed single purpose “standard sized” pedals. Buying such a small board was a huge mistake… I did not think “big” enough at the time and soon found myself wanting to add to the board and having no room, so I had to reorient two pedals to the horizontal position to squeeze another on. I’ve seen pedals mounted using zip ties, but I prefer the velcro approach that Pedaltrain recommends. In that case, you put pressure sensitive adhering strips of the fuzzy stuff on the board and the grippy hooked stuff on the bottom of the pedal. It helps to remove any rubber “feet” from the bottom of the pedal before applying the grippy velcro.. The pedals hold like glue onto the board! It can be a pain to move pedals around because the velcro works so well.
  4. Pedals require a power source. In most cases, but not always, pedals can be powered by a 9v battery. Sadly, batteries die at the most inopportune time and they sometimes leak making a mess where they’re installed. For that reason, I like to use an external power source. For a small board, like my first one, it was easy to power it with a daisy chain apparatus that powers all the pedals with a single wire and wall plug in. My guitar shop offers the Trutone One Spot.
  5. Finally, a line from the pedal board to the amp, usually a guitar cable.

With my teacher’s advice I added the following pedals to complement my Soul Food overdrive:

  • A Boss CH-1 Super Chorus, which splits your dry (original) guitar signal into multiple slightly moderated pitched signals and feeds them back into the output with the dry signal, creating an effect similar to voices in a chorus. This is often considered a basic must-have if you’re interested in signal modulation. Listen to Boston’s famously chorused guitars:
  • An Electro-Harmonix Memory Toy, which is a delay pedal. As defined by Reverb, “Delay is a time-based effect that copies your incoming signal and plays it back one or multiple times after a period of time.” To me, a delay is an essential almost always on effect that creates depth and expansiveness to your guitar tone. Listen carefully (best with headphones) to the “slap-back” effect in opening guitar riffs which is created by delay!
  • I myself specified a Looper pedal because I thought it might enhance my practices by allowing me to prerecord a rhythm pattern and play along with it. In retrospect, it’s nice to have but not essential.
  • Shortly, after my initial build I added a Boss TU-3 Chromatic Tuner, which is a heavily used and essential pedal to have on any board. I cannot tune by ear, and clip-on tuners can be a real trial to use sometimes because they’ll refuse to recognize the guitar string. It was the purchase of this pedal that led me to realize that my board was too small and subsequently had to rearrange the board in an unorthodox method so that all would fit.
Waiting for my 15 minute Open Mic gig…

Note: the original pedal purchases were all acquired at my local shop, so their inventory and the store owner’s and my teacher’s predilections had huge impact on my purchasing decisions. Over time, I dumped the Electro-Harmonix Soul Food, the Memory Toy Delay and the Boss Chorus because I found pedals that perform the same function in a more satisfactory way to my taste.

In sum, I really enjoyed using my first pedal board. I was particularly delighted with the delay effects combined with the chorus. I used them to great effect at Open Mic nights at our local Coffee Shop. Further, the small board packed into a nice fabric enclosure and was so portable and easy to deal with when moving gear around. As you can see on the left, I was not embarrassed to show up for my 15 minute gig with two axes, a guitar stand and the pedal board. Having a smallish board made life that much easier.


I Finally Think Big (Sort of)

Pedal array at Bob’s Guitars in Cedar Falls, IA

It wasn’t too long after I completed building my first pedalboard that I became more and more curious about the array of tonal variations that you could create with additional pedals. I began spending a lot of time staring down into the pedal display class case at my local shop and asking questions about what the various devices do. As a result, I wanted to add more pedals to “complete” a new list of “must haves” that I now had in mind.

A new more expansive pedal board…

First off, I wanted to add a compressor, which is often recommended to “smooth-out” the sound of a finger-style player by altering the dynamics of a musical performance, making the quiet parts louder and the loud parts quieter. The guys in my shop all loved the JangleBox, which was relatively pricey acquisition, but nothing wrong with trying to get the best (sadly, it was not, and it eventually joined a long line of pedals I off loaded). Secondly, I purchased an ABY pedal so I could easily switch my guitar between an acoustic and tube driven amp. My shop had a nice Orange brand.

With new pedals acquired, I needed more space on my pedal board. You can see in the image above I purchased a larger Pedaltrain platform. As a result of my own timidity, I had one of the guitar shop guys make the transfer from the small board to the larger, and add the two new pedals into the array. That was the last time I would pay anyone to set-up my board, because I finally realized it can be done relatively easily, and it’s fun. Further, the shop guy cajoled me into trading the small board in as partial payment for the set-up job labor. I was stupid to agree because I was given a pittance for a practically new (used) board, and I actually could have used that small board later on. I am still irritated about that and I won’t get fooled again.

Second generation expanded large board with auxiliary smaller expansion board

In very short order, I went on a tear and filled the new larger board with new “must-have” pedals and replaced two of my original acquisitions. Here’s a brief summary of what I did:

  • Added a Boss TR-2 Tremolo because that’s the tone effect that sent me down the pedal board rabbit hole in the first place.
  • Added a Boss VB-2w Waza Craft Vibrato. Vibrato and tremolo work and sound differently but both create a warbling, variable tone affect. I thought I should have one, but am still not sure I really did. Below is a Beatles tune that makes use of guitar vibrato effect.
  • Added a Boss RV-6 Reverb, which is an essential pedal to create expansiveness and depth in your guitar tone. The RV-6 can simulate varying room sizes and varying reverb technologies. Well designed reverb pedals offer so many variables, it can be a bit overwhelming to select one. Below is a great example of Pink Floyd applying heavy reverb in a recording:
  • Added a Boss Super Octave OC-3 because I like the way it can thicken the tone by adding additional octaves created off the dry signal. The pedal can also create a abruptness in the tone which is interesting. This pedal is fun but should be used judiciously. Jeff Beck’s Come Dancing below is a great example of Octave tonality on a guitar. Bass players frequently use this effect too.
  • Added a Boss GE-7 Equalizer because I thought I was supposed to have one… in retrospect, I did not really need one… many of my other pedals had onboard tone controls, which are easier to use so I hardly deployed its capabilities. Further, this box created a great deal of signal noise at the high end if it was used to adjust those particular frequencies. I’ve seen a JHS video discussing how equalizers are important and can be used, in addition to sound frequency tone control to create distortion, but in the end, this pedal lasted for only a while on my board before I pulled it and sold it on consignment at my local shop. I am embedding the JHS video below because it did influence my purchase.

In fact, you may notice on my second generation board pictured earlier above, that it is dominated by Boss pedals. This is largely because my local shop had a huge inventory of them, they are reasonably priced, are built to withstand an apocalyptic event, equipped with relatively easy control features, and are solid middle of the road performers. In fact, if you take the time to review the following JHS video, you’ll note how important Boss was in terms of originating pedal technology and circuits. This video had great influence on my purchase choices when I built my second generation board:

In addition to the new Boss Pedals, I also replaced:

  • My original Electro Harmonix Memory Toy Delay with a Dunlop Echoplex Delay. I decided after a time that the Memory Toy was just a muddy-sounding delay, so in a panicky mood the afternoon before I planned to perform at Open Mic Night, I ran to my guitar shop and auditioned several other delay pedals and landed on the Echoplex, which electronically simulates one of the original tape-based delays used decades ago. I loved its crystalline clarity, ease of control and the ability to simulate worn tape sounds, if I wished. I traded the Memory Toy and never looked back. The Echoplex is still on my board today.
  • My original Electro Harmonix Soul Food with a Mesa Tone Burst, I finally decided that I do not need an overdrive like the Soul Food. Instead, the Tone Burst is a much more subtle minimalist application of overdrive, with excellent tone controls and a nice clean boost to the signal if needed. This substitution made sense to me as I am not an advocate of distortion created by strong overdrive.
Second generation board with lower auxiliary mini-board.

You can see in the image to the left of my second generation board that I added so many pedals it became necessary to install an additional smaller board to the signal chain. What’s nice about this arrangement is that the main board can be easily detached and taken to performances. The pedals on the auxiliary mini-board never have to leave my house!


Opening a Can of Worms

When you move from a small pedal board to a larger one, there are consequences, which in my case were largely unanticipated:

  • Pedal Order In the Signal Chain There are does and don’ts regarding how various types of pedals are ordered in the signal chain. There are many resources available that will suggest conventional wisdom for proper order. For example, it is good form to start a signal chain with a tuner pedal and to follow it immediately with a compressor. The tuner is a “neutral” pedal; however, the compressor cleans the guitar’s signal early before entering other effect transformations. Nevertheless, most resources suggest that pedal order is not written in stone, and leave the final decision up to the musician’s predelictions. In some rare cases there are no location recommendations for pedals like a synthesizer, so you’re left to your own devices. I try to follow best practices and will discuss this issue later when I speak to my third generation pedal board.
  • Amp Noise and Independent Power Sourcing: This one really caught me off guard. I had no idea that when I started stacking pedals onto my board that I would be creating the possibilities for annoying hisses, hums, squeals, and tea kettle-like whistling! At the time that I built my second generation board I played my electric guitar(s) through a relatively new Fender Princeton Reverb (Black Face) reissue. A wonderful tuneful amp, but it simply did not play well with a full board of pedals. Worse, the noises that emanated were variable and came and went, particularly a tea kettle-like whistle. To tackle the noise, I took the recommended route of reducing the number of pedals that were daisy chained together. To do this I added an independent power source to limit the number pedals daisy chained together.
Underside of pedalboard showing multi-channel independent power supply

To the right, you can see the underside of my board where I (very neatly) attached a Pedaltrain Spark, which offered 5 independent power channels varying from 100 to 500 mV’s. In addition, I lassoed together the noisiest pedals, including the compressor, the octave, and any drive pedals into a separate circuit that passed through a Boss NS-2 Noise Suppressor.

Despite the aforementioned heroic actions, I still experienced occasional and random noise issues with the Princeton. Finally, fed up with the Princeton, I traded it in for a Mesa Boogie Filmore 50 which, beside being a superior and more powerful amp almost eliminated, but not completely, my pedal related noise issues.

Second generation board with Boss Noise Suppressor shoe-horned into the upper right section in horizontal configuration adjacent to Boss Chorus

I lived with this second generation board for quite a while, though I did make some minor changes here and there. For example, I exchanged the Boss Equalizer for a Mesa Flux Drive because I thought I needed more overdrive… I never really liked it, nor used it very much.

On the left you can see my basic second generation pedal board. It worked well enough, though I often wondered if I was too invested in Boss pedals. The Boss pedals are solid performers, but I came to the conclusion after months of working with them that they are like blunt instruments, beset with older generation electronics, and lacking in precision, subtlety with the tones they produced. And frankly, they are clunky and ugly too. The guys at the shop occasionally spoke of new circuitry being developed by the smaller boutique manufacturers that produce new soundscape magic. I ruminated about Boss versus boutique pedals for several months and then like a dam breaking, I just started replacing pedals wholesale to create a third generation board!

A Third Generation Pedal Board Materializes

Boss Synth which replaced the Mesa Flux Drive

Now this may seem contradictory. As I just previously discussed, I was feeling over-represented by Boss products on my board. Further, I was getting bored with the pedal array I had and was looking for some new tone possibilities. Consequently, one Saturday afternoon, I went to my local shop with two of my guitars (the Collings I-35 and the National Resolectric) plugged into a Mesa Boogie amp like I have at home and auditioned a Boss SY-1 Synthesizer Pedal. It was a great way to spend the afternoon. Using the synth to alter some of the tunes I regularly play blew away some of the guys in the shop because they viewed the synth pedal as a novelty and not particularly useful one. But as they listened to me play they realized that the synth could be very interesting sounding indeed. The Synth pedal is challenging in that it offers a broad array of possibilities, many useful and many not so useable. I traded the Mesa Boogie Flux Drive for the Synth and took it home. I still have yet to pull the potential from that pedal, but am committed to it longterm. Grabbing the Synth and replacing a pedal that I did not like was like pulling a finger from the dike. A slow trickle would become a flood of change.

What truly broke the dike open was when my friend Grant started preening about a Keeley compressor that he’d recently acquired on the cheap from Reverb. It was at that point I really tumbled onto the fact that I wasted a pile of money on the Jangle Box compressor, which in my experienced judgement had far too limited control features with almost no documentation for how it should work, didn’t sound all that interesting either and it was noisy. I decided it should be replaced and went out into the marketplace looking for a seriously good compressor. This time I would do the necessary research before completing a purchase.

There is an incredible amount of information about pedals on the internet, particularly YouTube where reviewers of all sorts abound. In addition, there is printed literature, such as the huge coffee table book shown to the left. If you take the time, you can triangulate in a what to expect from a particular pedal. Since there is always someone, somewhere who will like any pedal, you should be thorough and consider multiple opinions.

I like to start with online rankings. For example, I start with a search engine phrase like, “rank the best guitar compressor pedals.” Several lists typically pop up and I will scroll through looking at the various choices they’ve selected. I will not necessarily choose the number one listed pedal, rather I will look over the pedal landscape and then dig into the individual choices that look most interesting to me. Companies with heavy marketing campaigns like Boss and Strymon will always show up on these lists, but its the ones I’ve never heard of that I’m looking for. Further, I am interested in standard sized pedal box enclosures. I don’t like mini pedals because they look under-engineered and have limited controls. On the other hand, I don’t like the larger, space intensive, over-complicated or multi-purpose pedals either. Size matters as it affects how much you can pack onto your board.

Following are the latest changes I’ve made, which now comprise my 3rd generation pedalboard:

Cali76 Stacked Edition Compressor
  • Compression: After due diligence, I decided to replace the Jangle Box with an Origin Effects Cali 76 Stacked Edition. Inside the Origin Effects stacked edition are two side-by-side paired compressors similar to what recording studios often use. Each compressor is individually controllable, and as seen on the left there is a golden knob to control the feed of the first compressor into the second. Further, the final output mix of dry signal and compressed signal is also adjustable, which was a feature sadly missing on the Jangle Box. Origin Effects offers several recommended fundamental set-ups and I’ve chosen to use the “always on” arrangement. The pedal enriches the sound of any guitar plugged into the signal chain. It’s quite lovely. In addition, like British textile manufacturing equipment I worked with in another lifetime before, the Cali76 is one of the most solidly built pedals I’ve ever owned! It’s a keeper.
  • Phaser: For starters, I never really connected with my Boss Waza Craft Vibrato. A little bit of it went a very long way, and if overdone, it was disorienting to the listener… in fact, it could make you a bit seasick… seriously. Consequently, I used it ratcheted way down so it was barely sonically evident out of the amp. In sum, I disliked the effect and was underwhelmed with the new feature set included with the expensive Waza Craft version. To replace vibrato, I considered other modulation effects like a Univibe or Flanger, but finally settled on a Phaser. Phasing is an eerie SciFi-like but pleasant sound and is better explained here then I can do it. Here’s two great examples of phasing at work:

Walrus Audio Lillian Phaser

Searching for “the best” phaser led me down the Walrus rabbit hole. A fascinating pedal manufacturer that eventually sold me three different modulation pedals. The first one I purchased was the Lillian Phaser. In addition to functioning well, the pedal has great graphics. It’s named for one of the actual rare World War II woman aircraft pilots.

I am very pleased with the phaser effect. I’ve used it at Open Mic night and it adds a fat, eeriness to a tune that catches the attention of listeners, but it should probably be used judiciously.

Though I am not interested in doing so, it is possible to push the Lillian into vibrato if necessary.


Walrus Audio Julia Chorus
  • Chorus: The Boss Chorus pedal always sounded shrill to me on any of the guitars I played through it. I was about to give up on chorus effect until I discovered the Walrus Julia. To me, it is a richer, more subtle, and more refined Chorus when compared to the Boss version (including their latest Waza Craft edition). Again, great graphics on the box and perfectly intuitive control feature come with the pedal. As a bonus, my guitar teacher has ongoing fantasies about Julia when he sees the pedal. Finally, like the Lillian Phaser, this pedal can be pushed into vibrato mode.

Here’s another notable tune known for its use of chorus guitar effects:


Walrus Audio Monument Tremolo
  • Tremolo: Well, after the acquisition of the Julia Chorus, I had the Walrus fever and decided after studying its specs and reviews that I would dump the prosaic Boss Tremolo for the Walrus Monument, which is a more sophisticated device, including, for example, tempo control and harmonic output.

I am very fond of tremolo and will use it whenever I think it’s appropriate. Tempo, rate and depth all have a major impact on the tonality produced.

Below I am including one of the more famous uses of tremolo effect by electric guitar pioneer Dick Dale:


Neunaber Reverb
  • Reverb: After replacing the Tremolo pedal, I continued on my mission of dumping whatever Boss pedals I could. To that end, I’d reached the point where I thought that the three Walrus pedals, as good as they are, were enough of that brand for my board. In addition, I did not find a Walrus reverb that persuaded me to acquire it. So I went back out to review the lists of best pedals and eventually found the Neunaber company, named for it’s owner and chief creator.

My research suggested that the Neunaber Immerse Reverberator was cutting edge technology. Similar to the Boss RV-6, the Immerse offered a wide array of reverb selections, but their proprietary W3T (Wet v3) algorithm separated the pedal from the crowd. I just simply sounds great.

Unless there’s compelling reason not to, the Reverberator is an always on pedal because of the depth and expansiveness that the pedal brings to the guitar’s tonality.


Me on the left at Open Mic Night. Note the 3rd Generation Pedalboard below my knee.
Under scrutiny by the shop guys

After I acquired the Neunaber Reverberator, I thought I was done with my 3rd generation pedalboard renovations. As you can see above I used the board to support my playing during the June 2021 Open Mic Night at Cup of Joe. Further, I was delighted to have two of my young friends who work at my local guitar shop attend the activities and when I closed the night with some work on my National M1 Tricone they scrutinized me like Talmudic scholars.

When I was done, they were kind and congratulated me for my bottleneck slide playing and then they closely examined my pedalboard renovations. They knew I’d been up to something because I sold my old pedals on consignment at their store and occasionally asked their opinion on different pedals. In sum, they were impressed with the board except they thought I needed a more serious gain pedal. “You need more grit” was their consensus.

Well… I gave their critique (or encouragement) some thought and after a while I went out into the marketplace looking for some grit in the form of a gain pedal.

Neunaber Intelligent Gain

  • Gain: There are so many gain/overdrive/distortion pedals in the marketplace it can be overwhelming trying to sort them out. I already bought and later disposed two of them (Soul Food & Flux Drive) so I was dubious about finding one I could like or use successfully. What I wanted was the ability to apply a subtle and gentle amount of grit depending on which of several guitars I own

In the end, I went back to Neunaber and after studying the pedal extensively, purchased the somewhat idiosyncratic Neuron Gain Intelligence pedal because of its deep control features it offered and the ability to save settings for various guitars, as well as the ability to use a tilt control to universally shift the pedal settings when moving from, for example an amp to a PA system.

Thus far, I am reasonably pleased with this pedal and am committed to sticking with it.


Summary

3rd Generation Pedalboard

Shown above is the finished and completed renovation of my pedalboard. As I explained earlier, the lower mini-board is detachable so that I can transport the main board to playing engagements. As with the 2nd generation board, the Compressor, Octave, Tone Burst, and Neuron Gain boxes are electronically lassoed together to pass through the Boss Noise Suppressor located on the upper right. The ordered arrangement of the pedals in the signal chain reflects basic conventional wisdom. What’s missing in this final set-up is the Boss Synth SY-1 pedal, which may eventually replace the Tone Burst in the near future. Because of occasional pedal based noise issues, I am also giving some thought to replacing the Pedaltrain Spark power supply with a Walrus Phoenix power supply because it would completely eliminate any pedal daisy chaining.

The final addition to the board was the installation of 26 red George L. Stress Relief Jackets to the patch cable jacks to keep their screw-in connectors locked in place. They also look way cool.


If this posting was of interest to you, please see my follow-up post here.

Flip your tablature/music page with a smirk!

Piles of paper charts replaced by tech…

A year or so ago, I posted a blog article about replacing paper with electronic charts using an Apple iPad, combined with the forScore app bluetoothed to a PageFlip DragonFly foot pedal. The pedal enabled page flipping for a multi-page tune. I use all this tech because I play a lot of country blues tunes, but simply cannot memorize them. While I develop finger-muscle memory for the tunes, it is necessary for me to have the chart as a cue when playing.

Smallish iPad Air in my practice zone…

In sum, with an iPad Air, a mic stand, a Hercules tablet holder, and finally, a DragonFly foot pedal, I replaced an ungainly, non portable music stand and sloppy, wrinkly, taped together hard paper music charts that flopped all over the place. How did it work out over time? Good, but after a while, I wished I’d purchased the larger, more expensive iPad Pro to make reading the music easier (the Pro screen actually projects a size equivalent to single standard 8×10″ page in a paper chart). Still, I made the investment in the smallish iPad Air and was initially loath to waste money by trading it in, much as I wanted to.

PageFlip Dragonfly foot pedal…

It’s important to note too that while the foot pedal functioned properly most of the time, I found it a challenge sometimes to stay focused on the music and simultaneously stab my foot out to find the proper forward shift pedal and avoid going accidentally backwards. Furthermore, the pedal would go to sleep when not in use for an extended period of time, and required multiple stomps to wake it back up, which was frustrating when immersed in the middle of a tune. Finally, the “in-screen” keyboard on the iPad was disabled by the pedal when active, which made typing annotations onto the music chart impossible.

Then, one day I was annotating a country blues chart and did a web search to see if it was possible to cut and paste lyrics or move a music bar to another location while using forScore. After finding online instructions for how to execute that capability and then fumbling around for an extended period of time trying to accomplish a simple cut and paste, I finally discovered that you had to be a member of forScore Pro to access that feature!

forScore Pro is similar to one of those patreon accounts that are so popular now for financially supporting online activities. For an additional small annual fee, you get added features like cut and paste and also support future improvements for the app. I joined because cut and paste is a very, very useful feature to arrange and annotate a chart. You also get occasional new update notes from forScore as a Pro member.

Apple True Depth Camera tech…

What I soon discovered after joining forScore Pro was that the 2020 iPad Pro equipped with their True Depth Camera technology, combined with the latest iOS 14 operating system would allow page changing within forScore with facial gestures! This is the same highly sophisticated technology that allows a person to log into an iPhone or iPad with facial recognition.

12.9 inch iPad Pro

The enhancements offered by the new iPad Pro were enough to push me over the edge. I wanted a larger surface area to see the charts and I was really interested in using facial gestures to replace the foot pedal! So, easy as pie, I arranged a trade-in for my year-old iPad Air and ordered a 12.9 inch iPad Pro. When the new iPad arrived, I transferred forScore and my music library over to it in short order.

I found out right away that my existing iPad mic stand holder no longer worked with the 12.9″ iPad. I owned a Hercules holder (lower right) and really liked it as it was very stable and easy to get the iPad in and out of the holder, but sadly it does not open wide enough to easily get the larger iPad Pro into the grips. So, after searching around I found a “decent” holder manufactured by Caddy Buddy (lower left). It’s good enough, but I still would prefer the Hercules device for ease of getting the iPad in and out of it and it’s more robust in construction. It would be a relatively easy design change to fix the Hercules device, but I see no evidence that the manufacturer is planning to do so.


Once the iPad is mounted in the mic stand at roughly the same level as your face, it can then be set-up via forScore to activate facial gestures to turn pages in a musical chart. As a reminder, you cannot access this feature in the settings menu unless you are a Pro subscription member (lower left). Inside the Pro settings (lower center) you can access Face Gestures and activate a calibration procedure for facial recognition purposes.

You have two face gesture choices, which are “turning your head” or “moving your mouth” in a kind of smirk to the left or right. I hoped that one of the gestures would have been a head tilt, but that was not available, and when I queried the forScore people about adding that feature they demurred. Head turning made little sense to me because you have to take your eyes off the music, and to be frank, I could never get it to work reliably.

Lip movement to change page

On the other hand, lip/mouth movement does work! After calibrating the iPad to recognize you with 1) a relaxed face, 2) lips moved right, and 3) lips moved left the device will flip pages on command. In the upper right image you can see that there are sliders also available to fine tune sensitivity. There’s also a test protocol to see how well you’ve tuned sensitivity by ease of moving small blue dots on the screen by shifting your lips.


So… How does it work???

For the most part it works pretty well; however, I do have some concerns with over sensitivity of the device. Sometimes, for reasons unknown to me, the page will flip without command. If you reduce sensitivity with the calibration slider to much to avoid phantom page flips, then you must really wrench your face to flip a page, which is distracting to you and an audience. Consequently, it takes time to fine tune the system’s sensitivity to your facial movements. I have some concern that changes in ambient lighting may also affect the reliability of the page flip. Also, I play sitting down and am concerned about seat height variation from home to perhaps a coffee shop open mic stage seat also affecting page flip accuracy. Finally, on occasion when I am playing for someone I will miss a note, then grimace at the pain of musical failure, and at that moment the device will sometimes respond to my dismay by flipping the page on its own, which makes matters all the worse.

Cut and paste option for moving lyrics to the chart…

In conclusion, the iPad Pro combined with forScore Pro is a keeper… I really like the larger surface area for viewing a musical chart and the cut and paste option for annotation is a great addition to the app. As far as page flipping goes, I am intent on working with the facial gesture feature, but will probably keep the foot pedal on standby to reverse unwanted spontaneously flips. There you have it…


Thanks for stopping by and please leave a comment if you wish to… you can also subscribe above too…

In the stack… current reading about blues, guitars, pedals, etc.


Grant and me at the local guitar shop…

I have the great, good fortune now in my retirement to spend as much time as I wish focused on all things guitars. After a harrowing visit to the Mayo Clinic for an annual physical, I was eventually declared good to go, so when I returned home I felt even more fortunate to have time to develop my musical sensibilities and skills.

To that end, I scheduled my first “gig” at the local coffee shop for early April. Along with my friend Grant, we will perform for a couple of hours on a Friday night. Cup of Joe is a pleasant, low pressure venue to perform… the coffee, tea and snacks are great and the people are kind…

Cup of Joe in Cedar Fall, IA

Grant and I will take turns alternating at the mic during the evening. He plays his original Folk-Punk-Americana on acoustic guitar, while I play finger-style and bottleneck country blues on a couple of resonators and a Taylor hybrid acoustic/electric guitar. So we are both feverishly sharpening our chops for the performance next month.

I am not particularly anxious about this gig, as I’ve performed at Cup of Joe numerous times at Open Mic Night… This time it should be more pleasant for me, as I won’t feel the time pressure that you do when all you have is fifteen minutes at the mic and there are people lined up to play after you…

In addition to working on my chops, I also have the freedom to read as much as I can abut all things guitars and blues… Here are some the books, on my short stack that I am either reading, have read, or intend to get to in the short term:

I just finished reading this wonderful book. Compiled by Jas Obrecht a lifelong musical journalist for journals like Guitar Player Magazine. Of the dozens and dozens of guitarists he’s interviewed over the years, he offers in this book some of the very best. It was fascinating to read what some of the best players think about their music and how they approach the instrument. Included are interviews with Neil Young, Jerry Garcia, Tom Petty, Carlos Santana, Ben Harper and Johnny Winter. Highly recommended if you love all things guitars! Published by the University of North Carolina Press, so it’s a classy binding.

I was so pleased with Obrecht’s Talking Guitar, I went ahead and picked up two of his other books that fall right into my wheelhouse of interest. Both new books are about blues players. The first about the early pre-electric country blues players and the second about the players who led the transition to Chicago/Detroit style electric blues. Reading these books should add to my knowledge base when I banter with an audience about the music I play…


Pedal Crush is a monumental tome about anything you could possibly want to know about the pedals that are used to augment and enhance the sound of a guitar. Published by Bjooks, I had to order this one out of Denmark. It’s coffee table book big and pricey, and I am just about 1/4 of the way into it. Including interviews with various pedal builders and guitar players who use pedals, it is a comprehensive and wonderful journey through this particular world of technology.

If you’re wondering why I am so fascinated by pedals, here’s my latest board iteration. It’s great fun to sculpt sound with a pedal board. For more details about most of my pedals, check here…

Until later…

Reviewing My New National Resonator…

Hybrid Acoustic/Electric National Reso-Lectric is a Singular Guitar


National Reso-Lectric

A couple of weeks ago I made the trek across Iowa and Minnesota farm land to Dave’s Guitars in LaCrosse, WI and purchased a new resonator guitar. I traded in a steel bodied National NRP Black Rust for a National Reso-Lectric.

I’ve played the Reso-Lectric quite a bit during the past two weeks and have conjured up my review of the guitar. There are just a very few reviews of this guitar out there on the web probably because there are not that many Reso-Lectrics out in circulation. The only “celebrity” musician I found by googling around who’s played one publicly is Metallica’s James Hetfield and that was revealed with only a single still image and that’s it. It should be noted too that Hetfield’s Reso-Lectric is the all mahogany version referred to as the Revolver.

I’ve seen suggestions out on the web that this guitar is capable of playing in overdrive/distortion mode but that is NOT my intension. I play finger-style country blues and as far as I am concerned the Reso-Lectric is a pickup enhanced acoustic resonator designed for country blues and bottleneck/slide playing and that’s how I am going to use it.

The Reso-Lectric is not the only National Resonator I own. I also play a Reso-Rocket WB (wood body). It’s a fantastic guitar that is equipped with one of Mike Dowling’s Hot Plates as a pickup. As wonderful as the Reso-Rocket is, it does not offer the sound palette that the Reso-Lectric brings to playing the blues.

Let’s examine the physical nature of the guitar first and then explore what it sounds like in some of its various modes. Let’s follow the string-line from tailpiece to tuning posts and see what the Reso-Lectric is…

On first view, it is a combination of stunning and unusual in appearance… a remarkable and unlikely looking guitar. Enhancing the singular appearance of the guitar is the sunburst treatment of the figured maple top, upon which the polished resonator cover rests, the art deco logo on the kitchen counter plastic cover and the 1950’s era sci fi nuclear reactor pick up control dials. Finally, the headstock is treated with a mother-of-pearl veneer cap, gleaming retro Kluson tuning pegs and capped off with another art deco National logo.

Examination of the back of the guitar indicates a nice solid block of mahogany serving as the guitar’s foundation and mounted to the body is a figured maple neck, which as with the rest of the exposed wood on the guitar has received a satin finish. The necks on all my other guitars are mahogany with a gloss finish, so this neck is taking some getting used to for me. The neck appears to be attached to the body with screws, which makes me a bit anxious. I would feel more comfortable if they were bolts… perhaps they are, but I am not willing to pull one to find out. I did have to gently snug them up as they were not all-the-way tight.

Also on the back, you will note a screwed on battery cover. Six wood screws are required for removal to get into the battery compartment where two 9 volt batteries are housed to power the guitar’s Fishman preamp. My Taylor acoustics and the T5z all require 9 volt batteries but only one. The Reso-Lectric is a power hungry thing. Leaving the guitar plugged into an amp when not in use will drain the batteries, so unplug…

At the base end of the guitar the characteristic National tailpiece is locked into place with a strap mount button. On my other heavier guitars like the Taylor electrics, I have changed out the stock strap buttons for locking Schaller’s. Given the relatively beefy 8 lb (3.6 kg) weight, I think it would be prudent to have strap locks on this guitar at some time in the near future.

The base end of the guitar strings easily fit into the hole/slot at the lead end of the tailpiece. Previously, I went into some detail on how to restring this guitar.

From the end of the tailpiece the strings traverse under the polished hand rest and are then situated into appropriately sized grooves cut into the guitar’s bridge, which for National resonator’s is most commonly referred to as the biscuit. The biscuit/bridge is comprised of two pieces of wood glued together: a circular horizontal piece that is glued to the metallic resonator cone and a vertical slice of wood with grooves cut into it to guide the strings like a guitar bridge. The whole enterprise, biscuit bridge and resonator cone are covered with a shiny and elaborate hubcap-like cover, which is very characteristic for resonator guitars.

When the strings are plucked their energy is transferred to the biscuit/bridge which downwardly vibrates the spun aluminum convex shaped cone which serves as a speaker and radiates sound outward creating the characteristic bonk and splang for which resonator guitars are known. Most importantly, for this guitar there exists a piezo pickup which is mounted in the lower part of the biscuit bridge, the signal which captures the sound emanating directly from the cone is sent to a Fishman preamp located under the volume control knobs in the upper bout of the guitar. The piezo is one of two ways in which the guitars sound is amplified.

Following the string-line past the biscuit/bridge and up towards the neck of the guitar, the strings flow over another electric pick-up. Covered in black plastic is a Lollar P-90 single coil pick-up. I believe this version is referred to as a “Soap Bar.” So, in sum, this guitar has two pick-ups available to sculpt its sound. One below the biscuit/bridge and the other located at the sweet spot just below where the neck joins the body of the guitar.

Control of volume and tone knobs are located on the top of the upper bout of the guitar. There is a toggle switch to move between the two pick-ups for individual selection, or the center setting will deploy both simultaneously. Unlike a lot of electrified guitars, this one does not have a tone control; however, tone control is managed really well in my judgement by blending the volume of the two disparate pickups.

So what do we have here for controls besides the pickup toggle? Referring to the image of the controls, the one positioned lowest is overall volume control. The middle switch controls the output of the under biscuit/saddle pickup and the uppermost control does the same the P90 pickup. The sounds offered by the two different pickups are distinctly different so it is possible to create a wide array of sonic possibilities by playing the pickups individually or by blending them through control of output. I will revisit this subject a bit later with some sonic examples.

After crossing over the neck pickup the string line advance along the ebony fretboard mounted on a maple neck. The fretboard is marked with inlaid dots, is 14 jumbo frets long off from the guitar’s body, with a longish scale length of 25 21/32 inches (65.2 cm). The strings finally arrive at the headstock, passing over the bone nut with a width of 1.73 inches (4.4 cm) which is fine for both slide and finger-style playing. The strings end their journey on the posts of Kluson tuners, which are elegant appearing and smooth operating.


I’ve included below are some sound samples for the National Reso-Lectric. I play a opening section of Blind Willie McTell’s Wake Up Mama with the guitar’s pickups set three different ways:

First I play Wake Up Mama with the biscuit/bridge piezo pickup engaged alone:

Biscuit/Bridge piezo pickup alone

To me, the biscuit bridge pickup alone sounds the most acoustic. Of the two pickups, I think the one on the bridge also has the most bite, which is typically true of most bridge pickups on electric guitars. I am not inclined to play the bridge pickup alone as it comes across to me as a bit thin and tinny sounding which does not appeal to my ears.

Second, I play the same tune with the neck pick only engaged:

Neck pickup alone

The neck pickup alone demonstrates, by comparison to the bridge pickup, a warmer, rounder, fatter tone which is also consistent with other electric guitars. I like the tone of this pickup but used alone it just lacks a modicum of bite that would make it most appealing to me, especially for a resonator guitar.

In my judgment, the best way to play this guitar and to elicit from it the most lovely tones it is capable of is to mix together the output from both pickups simultaneously. What I would call the Goldilocks tone. I tend to balance the tone more towards the warmer neck pick up but dose in enough bridge sound to add some edge. Let’s take a listen:


The first time I ever played a resonator, it was one of those moderately priced Fender wooden jobs and it was fun to play finger-style, especially my genre of choice, country blues, but it did not feel like a particularly substantive, quality instrument, so I decided to go top drawer and get a National NRP Black Rust for my own.

I’ve written about this before several times on this blog, that the NRP was pretty much a fine guitar for bottleneck playing, but for me it was basically unplayable finger-style because of the way it was set-up with very high action. I am delighted to report in this review that the Reso-Lectric is mac easier to play finger-style. Below I run through one of my favorite country blues finger-style tunes, Cocaine Blues (as arranged by Stef Grossman).


In the past I’ve purchased guitars and suffered from buyer’s remorse of varying levels but no so in the case of the National Reso-Lectric! For the genre and style I like to play it is a perfect complement to my guitar collection.

As a final note… National provides as nice a guitar case as I’ve seen… solid, sturdy, well padded and the guitar fits snugly into its place. Still… even so I would not check it through an airline! I don’t know how they do it but National managed to embroider a logo onto the top of the case… so cool…


Love this axe…

Please let me know what you think of this review and hit the follow button too!

Guitars and innovations, wood & steel… Taylor Guitars…

If you’ve looked into this nascent blog as it’s developing, it’s quite apparent that I allocate a significant proportion of my time in retirement to guitars… in fact, you could argue that at this stage of my life I am a bit obsessive about playing, and the technology associated with the instrument…

I get a great deal of satisfaction from working with my Taylor guitars, across the spectrum of acoustic, hybrid acoustic/electric, semi-hollow bodied electric, and solid body electric (currently on a UPS truck to Iowa after being repaired by Taylor!).

The commonality among all those guitars is the neck. The neck is where the rubber meets the road for a player and includes such key factors as the contour (radius) of the wood, its finish, and the height of the strings from the fretboard. It’s very easy to switch among the Taylors from one to the other because of neck consistency.

There is a substantial degree of snobbery associated with guitar culture. Traditions play a major role, such as the headstock decal for Martin guitars… I don’t like them, but that’s just me… One of the things that distinguishes the Taylor company besides marvelously playable guitars is their devotion to innovation and technology. Though a bit dated (the below instruments have evolved or been pulled off the market), the embedded Youtube video with Bob Taylor and Brian Swerdfeger speaks to the interesting tech that underlies two of the guitars that I’ve purchased off the used marketplace.

Swerdfeger moved on to Fender to develop a different acoustic/electric hybrid, the Acoustasonic…